Denim Diary - Zip It Good!

Plain and simple.....

Shortening metal (aka jeans) zippers doesn't have to be a traumatic experience if you know a few tips.

There is nothing worse than your zipper pull coming off the top so the rule-of-thumb is to shorten a heavy-duty jeans zipper from the bottom. Very simple 'they' say.....just cut off the bottom stop and stitch a thick bartack along the bottom - fool proof right?  Well, I had an 'incident' occur a while back where the zipper pull went right over my thick hand-stitched bartack.

I learned a new trick from Kenneth D, King when he was at Janie's Sewing Corner for a workshop.  He also demonstrates the technique on his 'Jeanius' class on Craftsy.  No more shortening zippers from the bottom and no more thread tacks for me.

For this technique, the zipper will be shortened from the top.

To start, take a look at your metal zipper to determine if there are one or two top zipper stops.

The red and blue zippers have only one top zipper stop on the left.

 This black zipper has two top zipper stop, one on each side.

If uncertain what length is required lay your zipper on top of the fly to determine the length of the zipper required. Even if  the exact length is known, it is good practice to double check by placing the zipper on the garment. The bottom zipper stop is generally placed 3/4-1-inch above the bottom of the zipper fly.

This example is for a pair of jeans.  The view is from the inside.  A full yoke pocket is shown in the view and the zipper is aligned on top of the left fly shield. With a pin, mark the placement where the top of the zipper must stop.  This will generally be just below the waistband seam allowance.  In the example (below) the seam allowance is 3/8-inch.  I want the top zipper stop to fall just below this point.

UNZIP THE ZIPPER! This is a critical step that is easy to forget. It is easy to get excited and cut off the excess zipper length only to realize that the zipper pull has been cut off too.  I like to place a safety pin through the zipper tape as a bit of insurance so I don't accidentally close the zipper and remove the zipper pull.

 

Very carefully, remove the top zipper stop(s) using a pair of diagonal wire cutters. But DON'T LOSE THE ZIPPER STOP!!

Have no fear though.  If you there is worry about losing or inability to remove zipper stops, these can be ordered.  I highly recommend ZipperStop for ordering extra top and bottom (if needed) zipper stops, as well as, specialty sizes and styles.  A standard jeans zipper is a size #3. They come in brass, gold, or silver.

Most likely, the zipper tape is much longer than needed.  All of the individual teeth above the pin mark will need to be removed. I shorten some of the excess off the zipper tape so I have less to remove.
I know I will need at least 3/8-inch of the cloth zipper tape above the top stop to properly attach the zipper to my jeans.  I will measure and cut off excess above that point.  

 (If you haven't removed the top zipper stop, don't lose those pieces -the top zipper stop is still attached to them.)

Using the same diagonal pliers, carefully pull off the individual zipper teeth.  Hold the tape firmly with one hand and with the other hand pull the zipper tooth off sideways (perpendicular to the tape). The cloth tape may fray a bit.  Don't worry about it and DON'T cut the cloth tape.  You need all that excess cloth tape to be stitched into the waistband seam allowance.

Once all of the extra teeth have been removed, place a top zipper stop at the end of the teeth as close to the teeth as it will allow and press firmly with a pair of pliers. 

I originally tried to use a pair of needle nose pliers but then I found these crimping pliers easier to work with.

I highly recommend that if you have a zipper with two top stops (one on each side), use both.  
The first time I tried this was a failure. I had a YKK zipper that only had one top zipper stop.  What I failed to realize that the zipper side without the stop must be even with or one zipper tooth longer than the side with the zipper stop.  Looking back at this image, see the side with the arrow? The top tooth is even with the zipper stop.

Do NOT do this.  The zipper pull will come off and get stuck.

Zip it Good!

Denim Diary - Topstitch Like You Mean It

Practice your topstitching!

A garment can be poorly constructed.  It doesn't even have to fit perfectly.  But if your topstitching is 'top-notch' this is all that matters.  It seems that the topstitching is all anyone notices - especially someone who is not very sewing savvy.

Embracing  the 2013 spring trend of 'bright' I couldn't help but give some punch to this lime green jacket with dark blue topstitching and buttons to match. The image to the left shows some of the cuff and button detail.  Dark Blue Mettler Cordonnet thread was in the needle and matching green thread was in the bobbin.

Image below left shows detail from the shoulder epaulet. Below right zooms in on the back yoke piping and topstitch detail.  All topstitching was completed using my Juki TL-98Q Semi-Industrial Lockstitch Machine.

 

No place does decorative topstitching set apart a garment than when working with denim. Here is detail from the first version of the 'Heartbeat' jeans. Two different thread colors were used on the pockets ad on the belt loops.

My first foray into decorative topstitching on a pair of stretch jeans.  I used my Janome CXP1000 Coverhem machine for this.  I just happened to have mustard yellow Woolly Nylon thread available for this.

Detail from another pair where I used the Coverhem machine for the topstitching detail.  Woolly Nylon again in the looper.

I didn't get too many pics but all the white topstitching on this classic jean jacket is almost stunning.  Juki TL-98Q again for this job.

Three criteria for great topstitching:
1) Thread (or threads)
2) Stitch type
3) Consistent Stitching


Thread

• Use a heavier (30/40 weight) topstitching thread (I love using Mettler Cordonnet)
• Use two strands of regular sewing thread and thread both strands through the eye of the needle (I've never tried this but Angela Wolf uses this technique frequently)
• Alternatively, purchase a double eye needle for topstitching with two different threads 
• Especially using a heavier weight thread, a topstitching needle (100/16) is a must as many of the heavier threads cannot be threaded into a regular needle
• I use my regular sewing thread in the bobbin - usually color-matching to the garment
• Other ideas for decorative topstitching consideration:
• Woolly Nylon (or other decorative threads)
• Variegated thread
• Coverhem chain stitch
• Coverhem 2- or 3-thread stitch so that the reverse (looper) side as the topstitching
• Add handstitching using yarn

Stitch Type

• Increase stitch length to 3 or 4 mm (And use this consistently for the garment)
• Both Kenneth King and Angela Wolf advocate using a longer 4-5 mm stitch length
• Most important test, test, test some sample stitches before beginning topstitching
• I've found that the combination of a thicker topstitching thread plus a thin, regular polyester thread often requires adjustment to needle tension
• Consider one of the pre-programmed decorative stitches on the machine
• Angela Wolf regularly uses the triple stitch

Here is what the triple stitch icon looks like on machines.  It is a stitch generally used with knits as it has a bit of stretch to it. But, for topstitching it creates a nice, dense stitch.  The machine takes two forward stitches and then one reverse.  Note: Do not use this stitch with thick topstitching thread.  Use this with regular sewing thread.


For all my images here (except for the pockets with coverhem stitching), I use the Mettler Cordonnet thread, a topstitching needle, and a 3-3.5 mm stitch length.


Consistent Stitching

• What makes topstitching not look 'home-made' is consistent, even stitching
• Especially for a set of back pockets, it is critical that the designs are mirror images of each other - choose pocket designs carefully to ensure you can accomplish this
• Use tailor's chalk to mark patterns first 
• Jennifer Stern suggests creating a template with holes in in much like that used in silk screening and use a powdered chalk to dust over the top
• I create my templates on a piece of paper, lay the paper over my pocket and use the old standard tracing wheel and tracing paper to mark my patterns
• Use the lines and marks on your sewing machine feet for consistent placement of double rows of topstitching
• It's more important to be consistent with stitching line placement than to be worried over lines being exactly 1/4-inch (or whatever) apart
• Topstitching on stretch fabrics can be tricky and create puckers – use narrow double rows and shorter stitch length (**test, test, test**)

I like to use a narrow bi-level/compensating foot on my Juki TL-98Q for the first pass of edgestitching. This foot allows me to work off te edge of the fabric and it compensates for the thickness of the fabric too.

I then stitch feet to my regular straight stitch foot and align this foot alongside the first row of stitching. I used to get sort of stressed out that I my second row had to be exactly 1/4-inch (or whatever) away from the first row of stitching.  Now, I realize that consistency is all that matters and I use this foot consistently as my guide

Perfect topstitching!!