Avoiding Mom or Dad Jeans (aka Long Butt)

It's a reality - very few women can pull off wearing low-rise, skinny jeans and actually LOOK GOOD. (Key here being 'look good.' Many women are wearing them but really shouldn't. In their defense, the stores do not exactly have much variety and tend to only stock skinnies.)

Whether one makes their own or buys them as ready-to-wear, avoiding the 'Mom Jeans' look is key to not looking like...well... mom!

Truth be told, in my own quest to gain some tips on how to avoid this fashion faux pas, I stumbled upon the blog Grasping for Objectivity in My Subjective Life.

Rachel has dedicated a great portion of her time helping women avoid the dreaded 'Mom Jeans' look.  While I don't believe she ever extended her services to men, some of the same principles apply and I will cover here as well.

According to Rachel, "It's all about pocket placement."

An amazing explanation directly from her blog:

"Let me explain. Mom Jeans typically have long pockets and high waists. And, due to this, the tops of the pockets are usually on the back above the butt, while the bottom of the pockets tend to hit mid-butt.
However, the bottom of one’s butt is the most distinct part – it curves inward – so it clearly defines the end of the rear. SO if your pocket STARTS two inches above board and your curve ends two inches below pocket, you just gained an extra two inches of butt, thereby creating the cursed Long Butt.
To avoid LB, go for pockets that actually start a little below the top of your butt and end an inch or so BELOW the butt. This shortens the butt dramatically – because you can still see the distinctive curve at the end of the butt, so it looks like your butt is only as tall as the beginning of the pocket to the curve, thereby making it about half the size of the aforementioned dreadful Mom jeans."

 Note: one can be skinny and still have Long Mom Butt

 Pocket placement aside, here are some general rules-of-thumb to avoid Mom Butt jeans:

1) Avoid diagonal rear pockets (top of pockets angled toward CB and parallel to the yoke). Instead place pockets straight up and down making them slanted relative to the yoke and relatively parallel to the CB seam

Diagonal Pocket Disasters (notice that one has a slightly fuller leg and one is a well-fitted leg)

2) Jeans should NEVER be so tapered that they cut off air supply when you bend over because they are pressing on your lungs. (An issue for women rather than men.) Widen the waist so that it is more straight up and down like a 'guy body' cut.

3) If purchasing jeans and they have an elastic waist or come in sizes S, M, L, XL..... they are mom/dad jeans - AVOID THEM LIKE THE PLAGUE!

4) Jeans must ALWAYS have back pockets to avoid being mom/dad jeans.

5) Avoid lighter/acid washes - go for dark wash

6) Avoid all-over uniform color EXCEPT for dark washes and dressier jeans you might wear to work on casual Friday. A slight bit of shadowing (fading) and/or whiskering in the right places will give definition to a dark wash and still be appropriate.  This you can easily do at home with a bit of sandpaper. Note the slight fading in the back and the front. It's minimal but adds definition. Pastel colors should be reserved to a minimum and frankly, very few people also can pull these off well.

Don't let the merchants and magazines tell you that 'Mom Jeans' are making a comeback. They are trying to make a sale.  Like Skinny Jeans, they are NOT flattering on anyone.

7) Never, ever, ever let your socks show.  If they do, the jeans are too short.  If they are too short, find your best length and cuff them up to that point (Measure between knee and floor, divide into thirds.  At each third is your best length - compliments of Louise Cutting.) If you must wear socks - ankle length only. Show some skin between the sock and cuff of the jeans.


Something for the Guys though really not very different from the Ladies.....

In general, men tend to have a flatter butt, which leads to its own share of challenges that ultimately results in Flat Dad Butt.

1) Purchasing or wearing larger jeans to try and hide the flatness will only make it worse. Find your best size that looks fitted everywhere else.

Classic Flat Butt (compliments of Steve Jobs)

2) Purchase/make jeans with some Spandex/Lycra.  Yes - just do it.  Stiffer jeans made of 100% cotton (usually 12-14 oz sold as work-type jeans) will only make a flat butt look flatter.

3) K.I.S.S. Most flattering on men? Straight Leg or Boot Cut, Medium Rise, Dark Wash. Avoid excessive fanfare, whiskering, distressing, and fading.

4) No Pleats. No high rise. No acid wash.

5) Again, pockets are the key! Look for wider (but not taller) back pockets that sit on your cheeks. Make sure the bottommost edge of the pocket doesn't sit too low on your thighs.  This can make you look dumpy (or Gansta!).  Watch the angled placement too (see #1 above). Must. Have. Back. Pockets.

6) Also, never, ever, ever let your socks show. (See #7 above for women)


7) If your jeans and your look is reminisceint of Jerry Seinfeld, you've got Dad Jeans Syndrome.

Don't let the merchants and magazines tell you that 'Dad Jeans' are making a comeback. They are trying to make a sale.


For men or women, styling is just as important.

** Don't Tuck Shirts In! Or, give it the half tuck - shirt front in/shirt back out.

** Lose the belt. (Note: 'lose' as in remove not 'loosen' as in less tight. If the belt is critical to your jeans staying up then you are wearing the wrong size/style. Lose both.)

** Wear a well-fitted blazer that covers the backside. (Ladies, cardigan can work too. Men, a cardigan only works if you are Fred Rogers.)

He may be one of the most powerful men in the world but this is classic Dad Butt Jeans:

Putting the Blue in Denim

Jeans come in all sorts of Easter Basket colors nowadays

Of course, there is black and white.....

                    And every  shade of grey you can imagine....... 

When you come right down to it, plain old BLUE jeans are classic and generally what most people think of when they imagine 'jeans.'

We wouldn't have this iconic fashion statement if it weren't for the work of German chemist Johann Friedrich Wilhelm Adolf von Baeyer (1835-1917). Baeyer (pronounced "buyer") was awarded the 1905 Nobel Prize in chemistry "in recognition of his services in the advancement of organic chemistry and the chemical industry, through his work on organic dyes and hydroaromatic compounds." In simple words, Baeyer synthesized indigo. Without indigo, we would not have blue jeans.

Indigo plants (genus Indigofera) were once cultivated to extract  indigo pigment. Baeyer developed the method to synthesize it. Later, the industrial process for large-scale production was developed by the German firm Badische Anilin- & Soda-Fabrik (now known as BASF) and placed on the market in 1897.

Indigo is a synthetic fiber dye. Its characteristics impart the well-known features to blue jeans, in particular, the irregular fading patterns we've come to embrace in our well-worn jeans.  The dye's chemical structure prevents it from penetrating into fibers completely making it rather colorfast to water and light. (In other words, exposure to water and light makes them fade.)

For the techies, here is what indigo kinda looks like if it were drawn as a stick figure:

Note: this is the insoluble form of indigo.

And for those who also want a bit more tech.....Cotton CANNOT be dyed with indigo as it is synthesized in its insoluble form. Indigo has to be specially treated (called reducing) to make it so that the cotton fibers can soak up the dye.  Once reduced using other chemicals (Sodium hydroxide and Sodium hydrosulfite), indigo dye is yellow. "Vat dye" is the name given to the general process of reducing an insoluble dye in order to make it take. After fibers are dyed with the reduced version of indigo, they are re-oxidized  to produce the blue color using either another chemical agent or plain old air.

I know this is long and kinda technical but stay with me

What this means to the user......blue jeans fade continuously!

To minimize of fading, wash your blue denims with some white vinegar. Laundry detergents are alkaline in nature. This alkalinity makes it hard for the fibers to hold onto the dye, hence the bleeding we see in our washing tub. Adding vinegar neutralizes the alkaline nature of the detergent.

Now that I offered the vinegar suggestion here is my disclaimer.....I have no idea exactly how much vinegar to use.  I've read everything from a thimble-full to one cup to soak in a bucket with vinegar/water mix. Susan Khalje recommends 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup vinegar per 1 gallon of water as a pre-soak. 

Peggy Sagers recommends washing denim with a can of Coca-Cola added. I suspect she does this for the same reason as the Phosphoric Acid in the Cola would serve the same purpose as the Acetic Acid in the vinegar. 

When I am lucid enough to remember, I've just dumped some white vinegar in the machine - likely a cup or two.  I'll be honest though, since I bought my front-loading machine I haven't tried it as I am not really sure where the best place is to put it.  It was much simpler with the top loading machine.

I have discovered a couple tips on prepping cotton denim fabric.  I used to always wash/dry my denim five times prior to using it. Five times washing in cold water and five times drying on high. 

I NO LONGER DO THIS AND I DON'T RECOMMEND IT!

After washing numerous yards of denim (both blue and colored, 100% cotton and cotton + spandex), here is a breakdown of my past process and how I currently prep the fabric:

 (Note: I specifically noted cotton fabric since RTW denim jeans are not always 100% cotton but an interesting variety of blends. With respect to fiber content, 100% pure WOVEN fibers are the most consistent with respect to handling and performance. As a matter of fact, a number of RTW manufacturers are adding polyester to their denim to increase longevity and decrease wear. Most jeans now have some % of spandex included too. Subjects of some future post.)

I prep denim/spandex blends a bit differently now. In this post, Sew Versatile Denim, I discuss the general weights of denim and with/without spandex. However, I did not really delve into fabric prep until now.  More on what I am doing with denim/spandex blends in a future post.

What about those finished jeans?? How often to wash? This, too is quite the matter of opinion.  Country Outfitter offers these tips on caring for your denim:

1) Wash less frequently and opt instead for spot cleaning where needed
2) Avoid the dryer - hang dry instead
3) Turn jeans inside out (also make sure to close the zipper)
4) Add 1 cup vinegar and 1/4 cup salt to reduce fading

Country Outfitter  even suggests hand washing your jeans.  I doubt I would ever partake of this myself but just throwing it out there.


Don't be blue - except for your jeans of course!


Resources:
Chemistry Connections: The Chemical Basis of Everyday Phenomena, Kerry K. Karukstis and Gerald R. Van Hecke, 2000.
Linen and Cotton: Classic Sewing Techniques for Great Results, Susan Khalje, 1999. 

Denim Diary - My Fav Denim Tools

I was asked if I had a list of my favorite resources and products I use when working with denim.  Since I didn't, I decided to put this together for myself as well as for others.

I will likely add to this post over time as I stumble upon more cool and noteworthy products.

 Hammer/Mallet
 It seems as though once I started using a mallet to 'tenderize' thick seams on denim, I started using it on everything.  Yes, even knits!

I HIGHLY recommend using a Dead Blow Hammer (also called Dead blow mallet) rather than a traditional hammer to soften seams. It looks like a rubber mallet but isn't the exact same thing. 
Two reasons:
1) A dead blow hammer minimizes damage to the surface being struck
2) A dead blow hammer minimizes the rebound effect after striking a surface netting more force to the surface being struck AND (more important) less damage and strain backward to one's forearm.  It might not 'seam' like a big deal but one could easily strike a garment a few hundred times during the construction process.

They come in different weights (measured in ounces). Especially for a female, I don't recommend a hammer greater than 16 ounces.  It is just a 

Dead Blow Hammer (Mallet) - usually orange or yellow in color

My personal favorite hammer is made by Craftsman and called a Soft-Face Hammer.  It comes with 4 interchangeable tips depending on the surface.  I use the black tip for fabric.

 

 
 Craftsman Soft-Face Hammer with 4 Tips








Zippers/Zipper Stops
I generally purchase YKK metal jeans zippers through Janie's Sewing Corner and alter the length when needed.  

I now know that I can purchase individual top and bottom zipper stops through ZipperStop.  Their selection is unbelievable and their service is fabulous.  

Wawak also carries zipper tops and bottoms and many different sizes and colors of zippers.

Snaps and Rivets

'Dritz No Sew Dungaree Buttons' (also called Tack Buttons) work the best for the fly button.  I like these because not only are they 'no sew' but also they don't even require a hammer.  They can be easily snapped together by hand. They also come in four different metal colors - silver, brass, gold, and black.

  

I recently found this company: Dimebuttons
They sell unique, decorative jeans tack buttons and rivets.  You can even purchase logo tack buttons such as 'Armani,' 'Seven for All Mankind,' or 'Wrangler.'  

Keep in mind that a 'No Sew' dungaree/tack button may require a hammer and/or dye-set to be put together.  'No-Sew' doesn't necessarily mean 'easy.'

So far, I've only used Dritz brand rivets.  I am able to get both the buttons and rivets locally at Janie's Sewing Corner.


A little bit off-topic but somewhat related, here is a helpful Primer on various fasteners by Dritz.

Topstitching Thread
I'm currently using Mettler Cordonnet Topstitching Thread for most of my topstitching. I love the look of the thread.  It is very thick and must be used with a topstitching needle since it cannot be easily inserted into a regular needle. (I use a Schmetz Topstitching needle.)  
 




Sewing Thread

I am not as particular as some people about sewing thread though I do prefer a good quality brand such as Mettler or Gutterman. Recently, I tried Omni Thread by Superior Threads.  I have to admit that I am impressed.  

I am not completely sure how to explain what is different but I like the way it sews.  I am currently using it on my Juki TL-98Q.

Denim
If you are willing to purchase bolts of denim in 30-yard quantities or have a friend willing to split, I highly recommend Safe Denim. The cotton is organically grown in the United States and the denim is made here as well.

As my favorites change or I find new products, I will continue to add to this post.

Denim Diary - Zip It Good!

Plain and simple.....

Shortening metal (aka jeans) zippers doesn't have to be a traumatic experience if you know a few tips.

There is nothing worse than your zipper pull coming off the top so the rule-of-thumb is to shorten a heavy-duty jeans zipper from the bottom. Very simple 'they' say.....just cut off the bottom stop and stitch a thick bartack along the bottom - fool proof right?  Well, I had an 'incident' occur a while back where the zipper pull went right over my thick hand-stitched bartack.

I learned a new trick from Kenneth D, King when he was at Janie's Sewing Corner for a workshop.  He also demonstrates the technique on his 'Jeanius' class on Craftsy.  No more shortening zippers from the bottom and no more thread tacks for me.

For this technique, the zipper will be shortened from the top.

To start, take a look at your metal zipper to determine if there are one or two top zipper stops.

The red and blue zippers have only one top zipper stop on the left.

 This black zipper has two top zipper stop, one on each side.

If uncertain what length is required lay your zipper on top of the fly to determine the length of the zipper required. Even if  the exact length is known, it is good practice to double check by placing the zipper on the garment. The bottom zipper stop is generally placed 3/4-1-inch above the bottom of the zipper fly.

This example is for a pair of jeans.  The view is from the inside.  A full yoke pocket is shown in the view and the zipper is aligned on top of the left fly shield. With a pin, mark the placement where the top of the zipper must stop.  This will generally be just below the waistband seam allowance.  In the example (below) the seam allowance is 3/8-inch.  I want the top zipper stop to fall just below this point.

UNZIP THE ZIPPER! This is a critical step that is easy to forget. It is easy to get excited and cut off the excess zipper length only to realize that the zipper pull has been cut off too.  I like to place a safety pin through the zipper tape as a bit of insurance so I don't accidentally close the zipper and remove the zipper pull.

 

Very carefully, remove the top zipper stop(s) using a pair of diagonal wire cutters. But DON'T LOSE THE ZIPPER STOP!!

Have no fear though.  If you there is worry about losing or inability to remove zipper stops, these can be ordered.  I highly recommend ZipperStop for ordering extra top and bottom (if needed) zipper stops, as well as, specialty sizes and styles.  A standard jeans zipper is a size #3. They come in brass, gold, or silver.

Most likely, the zipper tape is much longer than needed.  All of the individual teeth above the pin mark will need to be removed. I shorten some of the excess off the zipper tape so I have less to remove.
I know I will need at least 3/8-inch of the cloth zipper tape above the top stop to properly attach the zipper to my jeans.  I will measure and cut off excess above that point.  

 (If you haven't removed the top zipper stop, don't lose those pieces -the top zipper stop is still attached to them.)

Using the same diagonal pliers, carefully pull off the individual zipper teeth.  Hold the tape firmly with one hand and with the other hand pull the zipper tooth off sideways (perpendicular to the tape). The cloth tape may fray a bit.  Don't worry about it and DON'T cut the cloth tape.  You need all that excess cloth tape to be stitched into the waistband seam allowance.

Once all of the extra teeth have been removed, place a top zipper stop at the end of the teeth as close to the teeth as it will allow and press firmly with a pair of pliers. 

I originally tried to use a pair of needle nose pliers but then I found these crimping pliers easier to work with.

I highly recommend that if you have a zipper with two top stops (one on each side), use both.  
The first time I tried this was a failure. I had a YKK zipper that only had one top zipper stop.  What I failed to realize that the zipper side without the stop must be even with or one zipper tooth longer than the side with the zipper stop.  Looking back at this image, see the side with the arrow? The top tooth is even with the zipper stop.

Do NOT do this.  The zipper pull will come off and get stuck.

Zip it Good!

Denim Diary - Topstitch Like You Mean It

Practice your topstitching!

A garment can be poorly constructed.  It doesn't even have to fit perfectly.  But if your topstitching is 'top-notch' this is all that matters.  It seems that the topstitching is all anyone notices - especially someone who is not very sewing savvy.

Embracing  the 2013 spring trend of 'bright' I couldn't help but give some punch to this lime green jacket with dark blue topstitching and buttons to match. The image to the left shows some of the cuff and button detail.  Dark Blue Mettler Cordonnet thread was in the needle and matching green thread was in the bobbin.

Image below left shows detail from the shoulder epaulet. Below right zooms in on the back yoke piping and topstitch detail.  All topstitching was completed using my Juki TL-98Q Semi-Industrial Lockstitch Machine.

 

No place does decorative topstitching set apart a garment than when working with denim. Here is detail from the first version of the 'Heartbeat' jeans. Two different thread colors were used on the pockets ad on the belt loops.

My first foray into decorative topstitching on a pair of stretch jeans.  I used my Janome CXP1000 Coverhem machine for this.  I just happened to have mustard yellow Woolly Nylon thread available for this.

Detail from another pair where I used the Coverhem machine for the topstitching detail.  Woolly Nylon again in the looper.

I didn't get too many pics but all the white topstitching on this classic jean jacket is almost stunning.  Juki TL-98Q again for this job.

Three criteria for great topstitching:
1) Thread (or threads)
2) Stitch type
3) Consistent Stitching


Thread

• Use a heavier (30/40 weight) topstitching thread (I love using Mettler Cordonnet)
• Use two strands of regular sewing thread and thread both strands through the eye of the needle (I've never tried this but Angela Wolf uses this technique frequently)
• Alternatively, purchase a double eye needle for topstitching with two different threads 
• Especially using a heavier weight thread, a topstitching needle (100/16) is a must as many of the heavier threads cannot be threaded into a regular needle
• I use my regular sewing thread in the bobbin - usually color-matching to the garment
• Other ideas for decorative topstitching consideration:
• Woolly Nylon (or other decorative threads)
• Variegated thread
• Coverhem chain stitch
• Coverhem 2- or 3-thread stitch so that the reverse (looper) side as the topstitching
• Add handstitching using yarn

Stitch Type

• Increase stitch length to 3 or 4 mm (And use this consistently for the garment)
• Both Kenneth King and Angela Wolf advocate using a longer 4-5 mm stitch length
• Most important test, test, test some sample stitches before beginning topstitching
• I've found that the combination of a thicker topstitching thread plus a thin, regular polyester thread often requires adjustment to needle tension
• Consider one of the pre-programmed decorative stitches on the machine
• Angela Wolf regularly uses the triple stitch

Here is what the triple stitch icon looks like on machines.  It is a stitch generally used with knits as it has a bit of stretch to it. But, for topstitching it creates a nice, dense stitch.  The machine takes two forward stitches and then one reverse.  Note: Do not use this stitch with thick topstitching thread.  Use this with regular sewing thread.


For all my images here (except for the pockets with coverhem stitching), I use the Mettler Cordonnet thread, a topstitching needle, and a 3-3.5 mm stitch length.


Consistent Stitching

• What makes topstitching not look 'home-made' is consistent, even stitching
• Especially for a set of back pockets, it is critical that the designs are mirror images of each other - choose pocket designs carefully to ensure you can accomplish this
• Use tailor's chalk to mark patterns first 
• Jennifer Stern suggests creating a template with holes in in much like that used in silk screening and use a powdered chalk to dust over the top
• I create my templates on a piece of paper, lay the paper over my pocket and use the old standard tracing wheel and tracing paper to mark my patterns
• Use the lines and marks on your sewing machine feet for consistent placement of double rows of topstitching
• It's more important to be consistent with stitching line placement than to be worried over lines being exactly 1/4-inch (or whatever) apart
• Topstitching on stretch fabrics can be tricky and create puckers – use narrow double rows and shorter stitch length (**test, test, test**)

I like to use a narrow bi-level/compensating foot on my Juki TL-98Q for the first pass of edgestitching. This foot allows me to work off te edge of the fabric and it compensates for the thickness of the fabric too.

I then stitch feet to my regular straight stitch foot and align this foot alongside the first row of stitching. I used to get sort of stressed out that I my second row had to be exactly 1/4-inch (or whatever) away from the first row of stitching.  Now, I realize that consistency is all that matters and I use this foot consistently as my guide

Perfect topstitching!!

Sew Versatile Denim

Denim is our fashion staple. As a sewist I have begun to embrace this fabric as one of my favorites (the other being wool).   Some history, denim was first made in France but came to America in 1492 with Columbus on the ship Santa Maria (source: All About Cotton by Julie Parker. see Rain City Publishing). Sew...when I wear denim, I like to think I am '"dressing like the French!"

From the runway to the farm to the assembly line, denim is everywhere and sewn into everything. I used large pieces of denim as a cover for my couch to protect it from my crazy dogs. It looked nice and resisted tears. Despite it's simplicity and ruggedness, sewing with denim can pose challenges especially knowing how to determine the correct denim fabric for the desired garment.

Denim is simply plain old cotton fibers woven into a twill weave.  In classic blue denim, the warp (lengthwise) yarns are dyed indigo blue and the weft (crosswise) fill yarns are white. These white and blue yarn fibers give denim its characteristic look. Any fiber woven into a twill fabric has the classic twill diagonal lines on the reverse side.

The steeper the diagonal lines the greater the number of warp yarns per inch. The steeper the diagonal, the higher the quality of the denim. This is a sign of a tight, compact weave that is resistant to tearing and wears well.

Denim comes in different weights (measured in ounces), which can create confusion unless one understands how to pair the proper weight denim with the garment design style when sewing.

DENIM WEIGHT RULES OF THUMB

Take it from me if you try to make a fitted pair of jeans from a lightweight, drapey denim or a drapey pair of trouser jeans from a heavier weight denim, you will be unhappy.  I've "been there, done that" a couple of times, which is how I taught myself to understand the significance of pairing the correct denim weight with the correct garment style.

Recommended non-stretch 'classic' jeans sewing patterns:

J Stern Designs 0037 Misses' and Women's Jeans available through Pattern Review

Silhouette Patterns 3300 Lana's Jean

Vogue Patterns 8774

For trouser jeans, try Colette Patterns 1024 Juniper

To Stretch or Not Too Stretch....

Stretch denim has jumped onto the fashion scene. Why? Because the fit is a bit more forgiving.  Everyone laments about not finding jeans that fit and struggling to fit themselves when sewing jeans (self included).  This is a topic for a later blog post. Here are a few understandings I have gathered on the subject of stretch denim. (And, it is possible that as I learn more, this may change.)

Choose Your Spandex Wisely

These are two different species of denim and I have observed many people using the term 'stretch denim' to mean denim with a little bit of stretch.  Here more than ever it is critically important to understand how to read a fiber content label and apply the right fabric with the pattern.

The wrong pattern paired with the wrong stretch fabric can lead to a garment that is either way too small or sags in all the wrong places.

Recommended jeans patterns for denim with 2-3% spandex:

Kwik Sew 3315 Stretch Jeans

Angela Wolf 4200 Angel Bootcut

Petite Plus Patterns Jeans

Recommended jeans patterns for denim with 4-5% spandex:

Jalie 2908 Stretch Jeans

Kwik Sew 3807 Stretch Pants

Stretch Pants from Kwik Sew 3807

The March, 2013 issue of Lucky Magazine offered this color-blocking style suggestion for denim. I suppose it's a good way to use up leftover pieces of denim from past projects.

Happy Denim!!