Putting the Blue in Denim

Jeans come in all sorts of Easter Basket colors nowadays

Of course, there is black and white.....

                    And every  shade of grey you can imagine....... 

When you come right down to it, plain old BLUE jeans are classic and generally what most people think of when they imagine 'jeans.'

We wouldn't have this iconic fashion statement if it weren't for the work of German chemist Johann Friedrich Wilhelm Adolf von Baeyer (1835-1917). Baeyer (pronounced "buyer") was awarded the 1905 Nobel Prize in chemistry "in recognition of his services in the advancement of organic chemistry and the chemical industry, through his work on organic dyes and hydroaromatic compounds." In simple words, Baeyer synthesized indigo. Without indigo, we would not have blue jeans.

Indigo plants (genus Indigofera) were once cultivated to extract  indigo pigment. Baeyer developed the method to synthesize it. Later, the industrial process for large-scale production was developed by the German firm Badische Anilin- & Soda-Fabrik (now known as BASF) and placed on the market in 1897.

Indigo is a synthetic fiber dye. Its characteristics impart the well-known features to blue jeans, in particular, the irregular fading patterns we've come to embrace in our well-worn jeans.  The dye's chemical structure prevents it from penetrating into fibers completely making it rather colorfast to water and light. (In other words, exposure to water and light makes them fade.)

For the techies, here is what indigo kinda looks like if it were drawn as a stick figure:

Note: this is the insoluble form of indigo.

And for those who also want a bit more tech.....Cotton CANNOT be dyed with indigo as it is synthesized in its insoluble form. Indigo has to be specially treated (called reducing) to make it so that the cotton fibers can soak up the dye.  Once reduced using other chemicals (Sodium hydroxide and Sodium hydrosulfite), indigo dye is yellow. "Vat dye" is the name given to the general process of reducing an insoluble dye in order to make it take. After fibers are dyed with the reduced version of indigo, they are re-oxidized  to produce the blue color using either another chemical agent or plain old air.

I know this is long and kinda technical but stay with me

What this means to the user......blue jeans fade continuously!

To minimize of fading, wash your blue denims with some white vinegar. Laundry detergents are alkaline in nature. This alkalinity makes it hard for the fibers to hold onto the dye, hence the bleeding we see in our washing tub. Adding vinegar neutralizes the alkaline nature of the detergent.

Now that I offered the vinegar suggestion here is my disclaimer.....I have no idea exactly how much vinegar to use.  I've read everything from a thimble-full to one cup to soak in a bucket with vinegar/water mix. Susan Khalje recommends 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup vinegar per 1 gallon of water as a pre-soak. 

Peggy Sagers recommends washing denim with a can of Coca-Cola added. I suspect she does this for the same reason as the Phosphoric Acid in the Cola would serve the same purpose as the Acetic Acid in the vinegar. 

When I am lucid enough to remember, I've just dumped some white vinegar in the machine - likely a cup or two.  I'll be honest though, since I bought my front-loading machine I haven't tried it as I am not really sure where the best place is to put it.  It was much simpler with the top loading machine.

I have discovered a couple tips on prepping cotton denim fabric.  I used to always wash/dry my denim five times prior to using it. Five times washing in cold water and five times drying on high. 

I NO LONGER DO THIS AND I DON'T RECOMMEND IT!

After washing numerous yards of denim (both blue and colored, 100% cotton and cotton + spandex), here is a breakdown of my past process and how I currently prep the fabric:

 (Note: I specifically noted cotton fabric since RTW denim jeans are not always 100% cotton but an interesting variety of blends. With respect to fiber content, 100% pure WOVEN fibers are the most consistent with respect to handling and performance. As a matter of fact, a number of RTW manufacturers are adding polyester to their denim to increase longevity and decrease wear. Most jeans now have some % of spandex included too. Subjects of some future post.)

I prep denim/spandex blends a bit differently now. In this post, Sew Versatile Denim, I discuss the general weights of denim and with/without spandex. However, I did not really delve into fabric prep until now.  More on what I am doing with denim/spandex blends in a future post.

What about those finished jeans?? How often to wash? This, too is quite the matter of opinion.  Country Outfitter offers these tips on caring for your denim:

1) Wash less frequently and opt instead for spot cleaning where needed
2) Avoid the dryer - hang dry instead
3) Turn jeans inside out (also make sure to close the zipper)
4) Add 1 cup vinegar and 1/4 cup salt to reduce fading

Country Outfitter  even suggests hand washing your jeans.  I doubt I would ever partake of this myself but just throwing it out there.


Don't be blue - except for your jeans of course!


Resources:
Chemistry Connections: The Chemical Basis of Everyday Phenomena, Kerry K. Karukstis and Gerald R. Van Hecke, 2000.
Linen and Cotton: Classic Sewing Techniques for Great Results, Susan Khalje, 1999. 

Are You Mentally Ready to Sew?

Our mental mindset when getting ready to sew is VERY, VERY important. 

This may sound so incredibly obvious yet up until a few years ago, it was not that obvious to me.  

I approached every project the same and would often get very, very frustrated and, as a result, make mistakes.  Afterwords, I wouldn't even want to start another project because of so many frustrating failures and the feeling that “EVERYTHING IS TAKING SOOO LOOOONNGG AND NOT WORKING OUT!"

Here’s how this translates into practice:

You have two projects 1) a two-piece knit top versus 2) lined tailored trousers. 

Each of these are approached differently with respect to what it involves:

• How much time will it require?
• What level of sewing skills are needed?
• How perfect must the fit be for me to look and feel confident? 
• How many pieces parts? (19 pattern pieces - are you kidding me???)
• Interfacing? Interlining? Underlining? Lining?
• Machine(s)? Thread? Do I have to re-thread the serger?

I know I can head to my studio to make a simple two-piece knit top and likely start and finish in one evening. 

For example: Kwik Sew 3740

My  mentalapproach for the knit top is clearly not the same  as that for a pair of lined, tailored trousers.  Here is my epitome of classic, tailored trousers!  And don't we all envision Hepburn when we wear ours??? (okay, at least the ladies???)

Prior to starting a more-involved project, I must adjust my mental approach (aka attack mode):

1)      I must leave this mental mindset outside the studio “I’m going to the studio to sew and get this done”

2)      I must break the project into small tasks where each task is its own attainable ‘project’

  

More involved projects with multiple pieces and elements can be draining, especially if one is not yet as practiced with all the individual elements of that project. Using the lined tailored trousers one must be able to  insert trouser pockets (possibly welts), insert a trouser fly, make belt loops, make and attach a waistband, attach a lining,  etc. Each one of those elements could add considerable time if not well versed in it.

Who hasn’t spent the time making the elaborate project only to find that it didn’t fit – maybe not even at all! I’ve made too many completely unwearable projects - not just a poor fit but not even wearable – and all because of haste and the wrong mental approach. My biggest error (especially with trousers or jeans) is to rush past fitting.

Here is what separates the difference in mental attitude – TAKE THE TIME TO PROPERLY FIT!!!  For example, a noted expert, author, and educator on the subject states “expect to make 3 to 6 fitting muslins to fit trousers.” Yes -  THREE. TO. SIX. 

If a trouser pattern (or any pattern for that matter) fits you straight out of the envelope or only requires minor tweaks consider yourself very lucky.  You have a shape that is more in-line with industry standard measurements and very few people do.

Mentally say to yourself “my next project is going to be to get my fill-in-the-blank pattern fitted. I realize this may take 3 or more revisions to get it right but the results will be well worth it.” 

(Side Commentary regarding Wearable Muslin versus Muslin Made from Muslin: unless the fitting is already fine-tuned or you know you generally do not need to make many adjustments go with the Muslin Made from Muslin (or similar lightweight cotton) and TAKE THE TIME TO GET IT TO FIT RIGHT. A Wearable Muslin is a garment made in fashion fabric similar to the end-result project fabric. If the fit comes out reasonable, it may actually be worn in public unlike that of muslin.)

How to prevent long drawn-out projects from becoming cumbersome? Balance more involved projects with simple ones.  This helps me to keep my sewing attitude and approach fresh. Sometimes I even take a break during a very involved project or one that requires a large amount of hand-sewing to make something quick.  (Of course some of those breaks are much longer than others and measured in years not days/weeks.)

Sew.........Are you ready???

Untangling Thread Sizes

I assumed thread sizing was straightforward.  I was wrong.

As it turns out, there are several classification systems. 

To assist myself, I compiled a very simple list of thread classification, sizes, and general use.  This by no means is an exhaustive list of all the different variants of thread sizing systems but just a few basic guidelines.

There are two distinct classes for thread classification:

Fixed Weight and Fixed Length

Fixed Weight	Fixed Length
Thread count/size is expressed based on fixed weight	Thread count/size is expressed based on fixed length
Number of 1-meter (Metric) or 840-yard (English/Imperial) lengths of yarn called hanks in either a Kilogram (Metric) or 16 Ounces (English/Imperial)	Size indicated by the weight of a fixed length of yarn
Thick yarns = low count/size Thin yarns = high count/size	Thin yarns = low count/size Thick yarns = high count/size
Example: Ticket system	Example: Tex system

Here's how to put those sizes into use:

Application	Heavy Weight	Medium Weight	Light Weight	Lighter-Weight
Use	Topstitching, Buttonholes, Heavy Duty	Seam Construction for Most Applications	Overlock, Knits, Very Lightweight Fabrics	Blind Hem
Ticket System* ("Weight")	30-40	60-80**	130-140	180-200
Tex System	60-100	30-40	20-27	5-15

*Note: The term 'ticket system' means a whole lot of different  things and is also called Metric System and often referred to as 'Weight' (e.g. "Use 30-weight thread for this project"). It may be further subdivided depending on fiber content (cotton, polyester, rayon, silk, etc.) and even those are further subdivided depending on how the thread was made, number ply, etc.

**70 most common for spun polyester
**50 or 60 most common for cotton

To add a bit more fun……there is another weight-based system called ‘Denier.’ The thread size/count is based on the weight, in grams, of 9000 m of yarn. If a given length weighs 100 grams per 9000 m of yarn, it would be classified as 100 denier. A 100-denier thread is thicker than a 50-denier thread. (Just thought I would toss this out there while on the subject.)

Back to School Sewing Studio Savings.....

When 'Back to School' season starts, I can't help but get a bit nostalgic for colorful folders, pens, crayons, and that oh-so-trendy 'Trapper Keeper.'  The school supply sales are a SUPER time to stock up on sewing supplies.  Oh yes!  Many school supplies are helpful tools in the sewing studio.

 Post-It Notes

• Use them to jot notes to stick to your patterns or pattern directions
• When I have to walk away from my sewing in-progress, I'll often leave a note for where I left off and what to do next
• They made great seam allowance gauges at the sewing machine - just stick them at your seam allowance point and guide your fabric alongside

Dixon Ticonderoga Pencils
I'm a bit of a pencil snob. These are the only brand I will use.
End of discussion.



Large Rubber Erasers
Kinda goes hand-in-hand with the pencils. However, they are perfect for lifting the back of the sewing machine so that the machine sits on angle and is easier to see.  This helps to eliminate some back and neck strain.

Pencil Sharpener (Electric and Manual)
I couldn't survive without my electric pencil sharpener to keep the tips of my pencils sharp for pattern drafting and tracing. The small, manual style is good for traveling but also some colored pencils don't sharpen well in an electric device.

Prismacolor Colored Pencils
These are best for pattern work especially when copying from RTW. Do NOT get the Verithin type (they are too hard).

Composition Books
I love these for keep track of projects and jotting notes. They come in many fun colors and designs now.

Manilla Folders
These come in handy for making pattern templates for small items like pockets and as a hemming gauge.



Clear, Flexible, and Curve Rulers
Used for drafting and cutting straight lines and curves

 

Tape - Double-sided and Dispenser Style
I use double-sided tape to attach swatches of fabric in my project notebooks and I am constantly taping pattern pieces together.  Get a good, heavyweight dispenser that doesn't move when you pull a piece of tape off. The double-sided tape can also be used to tape down and tame unruly vinyl or leather seams.

        

Binders & Plastic Protective Sleeves
For storing items from magazines, printed patterns, etc. I am constantly ripping out inspirational ideas from fashion magazines.

Kraft Paper
I don't personally use Kraft Paper but many people do for tracing and drawing patterns.  Now's the time to watch for sales and special % off deals.

   

And...........Sharpie Markers
One can never have enough of these.

Denim Diary - My Fav Denim Tools

I was asked if I had a list of my favorite resources and products I use when working with denim.  Since I didn't, I decided to put this together for myself as well as for others.

I will likely add to this post over time as I stumble upon more cool and noteworthy products.

 Hammer/Mallet
 It seems as though once I started using a mallet to 'tenderize' thick seams on denim, I started using it on everything.  Yes, even knits!

I HIGHLY recommend using a Dead Blow Hammer (also called Dead blow mallet) rather than a traditional hammer to soften seams. It looks like a rubber mallet but isn't the exact same thing. 
Two reasons:
1) A dead blow hammer minimizes damage to the surface being struck
2) A dead blow hammer minimizes the rebound effect after striking a surface netting more force to the surface being struck AND (more important) less damage and strain backward to one's forearm.  It might not 'seam' like a big deal but one could easily strike a garment a few hundred times during the construction process.

They come in different weights (measured in ounces). Especially for a female, I don't recommend a hammer greater than 16 ounces.  It is just a 

Dead Blow Hammer (Mallet) - usually orange or yellow in color

My personal favorite hammer is made by Craftsman and called a Soft-Face Hammer.  It comes with 4 interchangeable tips depending on the surface.  I use the black tip for fabric.

 

 
 Craftsman Soft-Face Hammer with 4 Tips








Zippers/Zipper Stops
I generally purchase YKK metal jeans zippers through Janie's Sewing Corner and alter the length when needed.  

I now know that I can purchase individual top and bottom zipper stops through ZipperStop.  Their selection is unbelievable and their service is fabulous.  

Wawak also carries zipper tops and bottoms and many different sizes and colors of zippers.

Snaps and Rivets

'Dritz No Sew Dungaree Buttons' (also called Tack Buttons) work the best for the fly button.  I like these because not only are they 'no sew' but also they don't even require a hammer.  They can be easily snapped together by hand. They also come in four different metal colors - silver, brass, gold, and black.

  

I recently found this company: Dimebuttons
They sell unique, decorative jeans tack buttons and rivets.  You can even purchase logo tack buttons such as 'Armani,' 'Seven for All Mankind,' or 'Wrangler.'  

Keep in mind that a 'No Sew' dungaree/tack button may require a hammer and/or dye-set to be put together.  'No-Sew' doesn't necessarily mean 'easy.'

So far, I've only used Dritz brand rivets.  I am able to get both the buttons and rivets locally at Janie's Sewing Corner.


A little bit off-topic but somewhat related, here is a helpful Primer on various fasteners by Dritz.

Topstitching Thread
I'm currently using Mettler Cordonnet Topstitching Thread for most of my topstitching. I love the look of the thread.  It is very thick and must be used with a topstitching needle since it cannot be easily inserted into a regular needle. (I use a Schmetz Topstitching needle.)  
 




Sewing Thread

I am not as particular as some people about sewing thread though I do prefer a good quality brand such as Mettler or Gutterman. Recently, I tried Omni Thread by Superior Threads.  I have to admit that I am impressed.  

I am not completely sure how to explain what is different but I like the way it sews.  I am currently using it on my Juki TL-98Q.

Denim
If you are willing to purchase bolts of denim in 30-yard quantities or have a friend willing to split, I highly recommend Safe Denim. The cotton is organically grown in the United States and the denim is made here as well.

As my favorites change or I find new products, I will continue to add to this post.

Denim Diary - Zip It Good!

Plain and simple.....

Shortening metal (aka jeans) zippers doesn't have to be a traumatic experience if you know a few tips.

There is nothing worse than your zipper pull coming off the top so the rule-of-thumb is to shorten a heavy-duty jeans zipper from the bottom. Very simple 'they' say.....just cut off the bottom stop and stitch a thick bartack along the bottom - fool proof right?  Well, I had an 'incident' occur a while back where the zipper pull went right over my thick hand-stitched bartack.

I learned a new trick from Kenneth D, King when he was at Janie's Sewing Corner for a workshop.  He also demonstrates the technique on his 'Jeanius' class on Craftsy.  No more shortening zippers from the bottom and no more thread tacks for me.

For this technique, the zipper will be shortened from the top.

To start, take a look at your metal zipper to determine if there are one or two top zipper stops.

The red and blue zippers have only one top zipper stop on the left.

 This black zipper has two top zipper stop, one on each side.

If uncertain what length is required lay your zipper on top of the fly to determine the length of the zipper required. Even if  the exact length is known, it is good practice to double check by placing the zipper on the garment. The bottom zipper stop is generally placed 3/4-1-inch above the bottom of the zipper fly.

This example is for a pair of jeans.  The view is from the inside.  A full yoke pocket is shown in the view and the zipper is aligned on top of the left fly shield. With a pin, mark the placement where the top of the zipper must stop.  This will generally be just below the waistband seam allowance.  In the example (below) the seam allowance is 3/8-inch.  I want the top zipper stop to fall just below this point.

UNZIP THE ZIPPER! This is a critical step that is easy to forget. It is easy to get excited and cut off the excess zipper length only to realize that the zipper pull has been cut off too.  I like to place a safety pin through the zipper tape as a bit of insurance so I don't accidentally close the zipper and remove the zipper pull.

 

Very carefully, remove the top zipper stop(s) using a pair of diagonal wire cutters. But DON'T LOSE THE ZIPPER STOP!!

Have no fear though.  If you there is worry about losing or inability to remove zipper stops, these can be ordered.  I highly recommend ZipperStop for ordering extra top and bottom (if needed) zipper stops, as well as, specialty sizes and styles.  A standard jeans zipper is a size #3. They come in brass, gold, or silver.

Most likely, the zipper tape is much longer than needed.  All of the individual teeth above the pin mark will need to be removed. I shorten some of the excess off the zipper tape so I have less to remove.
I know I will need at least 3/8-inch of the cloth zipper tape above the top stop to properly attach the zipper to my jeans.  I will measure and cut off excess above that point.  

 (If you haven't removed the top zipper stop, don't lose those pieces -the top zipper stop is still attached to them.)

Using the same diagonal pliers, carefully pull off the individual zipper teeth.  Hold the tape firmly with one hand and with the other hand pull the zipper tooth off sideways (perpendicular to the tape). The cloth tape may fray a bit.  Don't worry about it and DON'T cut the cloth tape.  You need all that excess cloth tape to be stitched into the waistband seam allowance.

Once all of the extra teeth have been removed, place a top zipper stop at the end of the teeth as close to the teeth as it will allow and press firmly with a pair of pliers. 

I originally tried to use a pair of needle nose pliers but then I found these crimping pliers easier to work with.

I highly recommend that if you have a zipper with two top stops (one on each side), use both.  
The first time I tried this was a failure. I had a YKK zipper that only had one top zipper stop.  What I failed to realize that the zipper side without the stop must be even with or one zipper tooth longer than the side with the zipper stop.  Looking back at this image, see the side with the arrow? The top tooth is even with the zipper stop.

Do NOT do this.  The zipper pull will come off and get stuck.

Zip it Good!

Denim Diary - Topstitch Like You Mean It

Practice your topstitching!

A garment can be poorly constructed.  It doesn't even have to fit perfectly.  But if your topstitching is 'top-notch' this is all that matters.  It seems that the topstitching is all anyone notices - especially someone who is not very sewing savvy.

Embracing  the 2013 spring trend of 'bright' I couldn't help but give some punch to this lime green jacket with dark blue topstitching and buttons to match. The image to the left shows some of the cuff and button detail.  Dark Blue Mettler Cordonnet thread was in the needle and matching green thread was in the bobbin.

Image below left shows detail from the shoulder epaulet. Below right zooms in on the back yoke piping and topstitch detail.  All topstitching was completed using my Juki TL-98Q Semi-Industrial Lockstitch Machine.

 

No place does decorative topstitching set apart a garment than when working with denim. Here is detail from the first version of the 'Heartbeat' jeans. Two different thread colors were used on the pockets ad on the belt loops.

My first foray into decorative topstitching on a pair of stretch jeans.  I used my Janome CXP1000 Coverhem machine for this.  I just happened to have mustard yellow Woolly Nylon thread available for this.

Detail from another pair where I used the Coverhem machine for the topstitching detail.  Woolly Nylon again in the looper.

I didn't get too many pics but all the white topstitching on this classic jean jacket is almost stunning.  Juki TL-98Q again for this job.

Three criteria for great topstitching:
1) Thread (or threads)
2) Stitch type
3) Consistent Stitching


Thread

• Use a heavier (30/40 weight) topstitching thread (I love using Mettler Cordonnet)
• Use two strands of regular sewing thread and thread both strands through the eye of the needle (I've never tried this but Angela Wolf uses this technique frequently)
• Alternatively, purchase a double eye needle for topstitching with two different threads 
• Especially using a heavier weight thread, a topstitching needle (100/16) is a must as many of the heavier threads cannot be threaded into a regular needle
• I use my regular sewing thread in the bobbin - usually color-matching to the garment
• Other ideas for decorative topstitching consideration:
• Woolly Nylon (or other decorative threads)
• Variegated thread
• Coverhem chain stitch
• Coverhem 2- or 3-thread stitch so that the reverse (looper) side as the topstitching
• Add handstitching using yarn

Stitch Type

• Increase stitch length to 3 or 4 mm (And use this consistently for the garment)
• Both Kenneth King and Angela Wolf advocate using a longer 4-5 mm stitch length
• Most important test, test, test some sample stitches before beginning topstitching
• I've found that the combination of a thicker topstitching thread plus a thin, regular polyester thread often requires adjustment to needle tension
• Consider one of the pre-programmed decorative stitches on the machine
• Angela Wolf regularly uses the triple stitch

Here is what the triple stitch icon looks like on machines.  It is a stitch generally used with knits as it has a bit of stretch to it. But, for topstitching it creates a nice, dense stitch.  The machine takes two forward stitches and then one reverse.  Note: Do not use this stitch with thick topstitching thread.  Use this with regular sewing thread.


For all my images here (except for the pockets with coverhem stitching), I use the Mettler Cordonnet thread, a topstitching needle, and a 3-3.5 mm stitch length.


Consistent Stitching

• What makes topstitching not look 'home-made' is consistent, even stitching
• Especially for a set of back pockets, it is critical that the designs are mirror images of each other - choose pocket designs carefully to ensure you can accomplish this
• Use tailor's chalk to mark patterns first 
• Jennifer Stern suggests creating a template with holes in in much like that used in silk screening and use a powdered chalk to dust over the top
• I create my templates on a piece of paper, lay the paper over my pocket and use the old standard tracing wheel and tracing paper to mark my patterns
• Use the lines and marks on your sewing machine feet for consistent placement of double rows of topstitching
• It's more important to be consistent with stitching line placement than to be worried over lines being exactly 1/4-inch (or whatever) apart
• Topstitching on stretch fabrics can be tricky and create puckers – use narrow double rows and shorter stitch length (**test, test, test**)

I like to use a narrow bi-level/compensating foot on my Juki TL-98Q for the first pass of edgestitching. This foot allows me to work off te edge of the fabric and it compensates for the thickness of the fabric too.

I then stitch feet to my regular straight stitch foot and align this foot alongside the first row of stitching. I used to get sort of stressed out that I my second row had to be exactly 1/4-inch (or whatever) away from the first row of stitching.  Now, I realize that consistency is all that matters and I use this foot consistently as my guide

Perfect topstitching!!