Denim Diary - My Fav Denim Tools

I was asked if I had a list of my favorite resources and products I use when working with denim.  Since I didn't, I decided to put this together for myself as well as for others.

I will likely add to this post over time as I stumble upon more cool and noteworthy products.

 Hammer/Mallet
 It seems as though once I started using a mallet to 'tenderize' thick seams on denim, I started using it on everything.  Yes, even knits!

I HIGHLY recommend using a Dead Blow Hammer (also called Dead blow mallet) rather than a traditional hammer to soften seams. It looks like a rubber mallet but isn't the exact same thing. 
Two reasons:
1) A dead blow hammer minimizes damage to the surface being struck
2) A dead blow hammer minimizes the rebound effect after striking a surface netting more force to the surface being struck AND (more important) less damage and strain backward to one's forearm.  It might not 'seam' like a big deal but one could easily strike a garment a few hundred times during the construction process.

They come in different weights (measured in ounces). Especially for a female, I don't recommend a hammer greater than 16 ounces.  It is just a 

Dead Blow Hammer (Mallet) - usually orange or yellow in color

My personal favorite hammer is made by Craftsman and called a Soft-Face Hammer.  It comes with 4 interchangeable tips depending on the surface.  I use the black tip for fabric.

 

 
 Craftsman Soft-Face Hammer with 4 Tips








Zippers/Zipper Stops
I generally purchase YKK metal jeans zippers through Janie's Sewing Corner and alter the length when needed.  

I now know that I can purchase individual top and bottom zipper stops through ZipperStop.  Their selection is unbelievable and their service is fabulous.  

Wawak also carries zipper tops and bottoms and many different sizes and colors of zippers.

Snaps and Rivets

'Dritz No Sew Dungaree Buttons' (also called Tack Buttons) work the best for the fly button.  I like these because not only are they 'no sew' but also they don't even require a hammer.  They can be easily snapped together by hand. They also come in four different metal colors - silver, brass, gold, and black.

  

I recently found this company: Dimebuttons
They sell unique, decorative jeans tack buttons and rivets.  You can even purchase logo tack buttons such as 'Armani,' 'Seven for All Mankind,' or 'Wrangler.'  

Keep in mind that a 'No Sew' dungaree/tack button may require a hammer and/or dye-set to be put together.  'No-Sew' doesn't necessarily mean 'easy.'

So far, I've only used Dritz brand rivets.  I am able to get both the buttons and rivets locally at Janie's Sewing Corner.


A little bit off-topic but somewhat related, here is a helpful Primer on various fasteners by Dritz.

Topstitching Thread
I'm currently using Mettler Cordonnet Topstitching Thread for most of my topstitching. I love the look of the thread.  It is very thick and must be used with a topstitching needle since it cannot be easily inserted into a regular needle. (I use a Schmetz Topstitching needle.)  
 




Sewing Thread

I am not as particular as some people about sewing thread though I do prefer a good quality brand such as Mettler or Gutterman. Recently, I tried Omni Thread by Superior Threads.  I have to admit that I am impressed.  

I am not completely sure how to explain what is different but I like the way it sews.  I am currently using it on my Juki TL-98Q.

Denim
If you are willing to purchase bolts of denim in 30-yard quantities or have a friend willing to split, I highly recommend Safe Denim. The cotton is organically grown in the United States and the denim is made here as well.

As my favorites change or I find new products, I will continue to add to this post.

Denim Diary - Zip It Good!

Plain and simple.....

Shortening metal (aka jeans) zippers doesn't have to be a traumatic experience if you know a few tips.

There is nothing worse than your zipper pull coming off the top so the rule-of-thumb is to shorten a heavy-duty jeans zipper from the bottom. Very simple 'they' say.....just cut off the bottom stop and stitch a thick bartack along the bottom - fool proof right?  Well, I had an 'incident' occur a while back where the zipper pull went right over my thick hand-stitched bartack.

I learned a new trick from Kenneth D, King when he was at Janie's Sewing Corner for a workshop.  He also demonstrates the technique on his 'Jeanius' class on Craftsy.  No more shortening zippers from the bottom and no more thread tacks for me.

For this technique, the zipper will be shortened from the top.

To start, take a look at your metal zipper to determine if there are one or two top zipper stops.

The red and blue zippers have only one top zipper stop on the left.

 This black zipper has two top zipper stop, one on each side.

If uncertain what length is required lay your zipper on top of the fly to determine the length of the zipper required. Even if  the exact length is known, it is good practice to double check by placing the zipper on the garment. The bottom zipper stop is generally placed 3/4-1-inch above the bottom of the zipper fly.

This example is for a pair of jeans.  The view is from the inside.  A full yoke pocket is shown in the view and the zipper is aligned on top of the left fly shield. With a pin, mark the placement where the top of the zipper must stop.  This will generally be just below the waistband seam allowance.  In the example (below) the seam allowance is 3/8-inch.  I want the top zipper stop to fall just below this point.

UNZIP THE ZIPPER! This is a critical step that is easy to forget. It is easy to get excited and cut off the excess zipper length only to realize that the zipper pull has been cut off too.  I like to place a safety pin through the zipper tape as a bit of insurance so I don't accidentally close the zipper and remove the zipper pull.

 

Very carefully, remove the top zipper stop(s) using a pair of diagonal wire cutters. But DON'T LOSE THE ZIPPER STOP!!

Have no fear though.  If you there is worry about losing or inability to remove zipper stops, these can be ordered.  I highly recommend ZipperStop for ordering extra top and bottom (if needed) zipper stops, as well as, specialty sizes and styles.  A standard jeans zipper is a size #3. They come in brass, gold, or silver.

Most likely, the zipper tape is much longer than needed.  All of the individual teeth above the pin mark will need to be removed. I shorten some of the excess off the zipper tape so I have less to remove.
I know I will need at least 3/8-inch of the cloth zipper tape above the top stop to properly attach the zipper to my jeans.  I will measure and cut off excess above that point.  

 (If you haven't removed the top zipper stop, don't lose those pieces -the top zipper stop is still attached to them.)

Using the same diagonal pliers, carefully pull off the individual zipper teeth.  Hold the tape firmly with one hand and with the other hand pull the zipper tooth off sideways (perpendicular to the tape). The cloth tape may fray a bit.  Don't worry about it and DON'T cut the cloth tape.  You need all that excess cloth tape to be stitched into the waistband seam allowance.

Once all of the extra teeth have been removed, place a top zipper stop at the end of the teeth as close to the teeth as it will allow and press firmly with a pair of pliers. 

I originally tried to use a pair of needle nose pliers but then I found these crimping pliers easier to work with.

I highly recommend that if you have a zipper with two top stops (one on each side), use both.  
The first time I tried this was a failure. I had a YKK zipper that only had one top zipper stop.  What I failed to realize that the zipper side without the stop must be even with or one zipper tooth longer than the side with the zipper stop.  Looking back at this image, see the side with the arrow? The top tooth is even with the zipper stop.

Do NOT do this.  The zipper pull will come off and get stuck.

Zip it Good!

Denim Diary - Topstitch Like You Mean It

Practice your topstitching!

A garment can be poorly constructed.  It doesn't even have to fit perfectly.  But if your topstitching is 'top-notch' this is all that matters.  It seems that the topstitching is all anyone notices - especially someone who is not very sewing savvy.

Embracing  the 2013 spring trend of 'bright' I couldn't help but give some punch to this lime green jacket with dark blue topstitching and buttons to match. The image to the left shows some of the cuff and button detail.  Dark Blue Mettler Cordonnet thread was in the needle and matching green thread was in the bobbin.

Image below left shows detail from the shoulder epaulet. Below right zooms in on the back yoke piping and topstitch detail.  All topstitching was completed using my Juki TL-98Q Semi-Industrial Lockstitch Machine.

 

No place does decorative topstitching set apart a garment than when working with denim. Here is detail from the first version of the 'Heartbeat' jeans. Two different thread colors were used on the pockets ad on the belt loops.

My first foray into decorative topstitching on a pair of stretch jeans.  I used my Janome CXP1000 Coverhem machine for this.  I just happened to have mustard yellow Woolly Nylon thread available for this.

Detail from another pair where I used the Coverhem machine for the topstitching detail.  Woolly Nylon again in the looper.

I didn't get too many pics but all the white topstitching on this classic jean jacket is almost stunning.  Juki TL-98Q again for this job.

Three criteria for great topstitching:
1) Thread (or threads)
2) Stitch type
3) Consistent Stitching


Thread

• Use a heavier (30/40 weight) topstitching thread (I love using Mettler Cordonnet)
• Use two strands of regular sewing thread and thread both strands through the eye of the needle (I've never tried this but Angela Wolf uses this technique frequently)
• Alternatively, purchase a double eye needle for topstitching with two different threads 
• Especially using a heavier weight thread, a topstitching needle (100/16) is a must as many of the heavier threads cannot be threaded into a regular needle
• I use my regular sewing thread in the bobbin - usually color-matching to the garment
• Other ideas for decorative topstitching consideration:
• Woolly Nylon (or other decorative threads)
• Variegated thread
• Coverhem chain stitch
• Coverhem 2- or 3-thread stitch so that the reverse (looper) side as the topstitching
• Add handstitching using yarn

Stitch Type

• Increase stitch length to 3 or 4 mm (And use this consistently for the garment)
• Both Kenneth King and Angela Wolf advocate using a longer 4-5 mm stitch length
• Most important test, test, test some sample stitches before beginning topstitching
• I've found that the combination of a thicker topstitching thread plus a thin, regular polyester thread often requires adjustment to needle tension
• Consider one of the pre-programmed decorative stitches on the machine
• Angela Wolf regularly uses the triple stitch

Here is what the triple stitch icon looks like on machines.  It is a stitch generally used with knits as it has a bit of stretch to it. But, for topstitching it creates a nice, dense stitch.  The machine takes two forward stitches and then one reverse.  Note: Do not use this stitch with thick topstitching thread.  Use this with regular sewing thread.


For all my images here (except for the pockets with coverhem stitching), I use the Mettler Cordonnet thread, a topstitching needle, and a 3-3.5 mm stitch length.


Consistent Stitching

• What makes topstitching not look 'home-made' is consistent, even stitching
• Especially for a set of back pockets, it is critical that the designs are mirror images of each other - choose pocket designs carefully to ensure you can accomplish this
• Use tailor's chalk to mark patterns first 
• Jennifer Stern suggests creating a template with holes in in much like that used in silk screening and use a powdered chalk to dust over the top
• I create my templates on a piece of paper, lay the paper over my pocket and use the old standard tracing wheel and tracing paper to mark my patterns
• Use the lines and marks on your sewing machine feet for consistent placement of double rows of topstitching
• It's more important to be consistent with stitching line placement than to be worried over lines being exactly 1/4-inch (or whatever) apart
• Topstitching on stretch fabrics can be tricky and create puckers – use narrow double rows and shorter stitch length (**test, test, test**)

I like to use a narrow bi-level/compensating foot on my Juki TL-98Q for the first pass of edgestitching. This foot allows me to work off te edge of the fabric and it compensates for the thickness of the fabric too.

I then stitch feet to my regular straight stitch foot and align this foot alongside the first row of stitching. I used to get sort of stressed out that I my second row had to be exactly 1/4-inch (or whatever) away from the first row of stitching.  Now, I realize that consistency is all that matters and I use this foot consistently as my guide

Perfect topstitching!!

A Closet Full of Clothes But Nothing to Wear

And sew it goes.......the closet is full but I have nothing to wear.

Even more sew, the fabric 'stash' shelves are full but I still have 'nothing to sew.'

The overhaul begins. Going through the closets and asking "When was the last time I wore this? Did I ever wear it? Will I ever wear it?"  What is the reason I am not wearing it - style, fit, color, etc??

Time to heed the advice of the clutter gurus and "clean out the mental, emotional, and physical closets of my life." Same is true for my fabric stash.  I find myself lamenting, "What was I thinking when I bought this fabric?"

Armed with a much more savvy (and realistic) thought process about what I would actually wear (and sew) I am amassing discard piles - heaps really. Fellow sewists are reaping the benefits of my stash overload.

Now the challenge of staying on track to create a wardrobe of clothes I would actually wear and are timeless essentials.

I consulted a few blogs and decided to generate my own list of must-haves to guide my sewing endeavors for the rest of the year or so:

Tim Gunns Ten Essential Wardrobe Items

Top Ten Closet Must Haves

Ten Fashion Items That Will Always Be In Style

InStyle Ten Things Every Woman Must Own

My list (in random order):
1) Something Animal Print - have a Cheetah print Ponte de Roma will use Kwik Sew 3740
2) Jeans - have the fabric dark wash, white, red
3) Oversize men's blazer - Almost finished in dark brown wool (about 2 more hours to go) in Kwik Sew 3715
3) Fitted black blazer - have the fabric probably use a BurdaStyle Pattern
4) Crisp white blouse - have the fabric - many patterns to choose from here
5) Black pencil skirt - Likely take from a BurdaStyle Magazine
6) Little Black Dress - have the black wool crepe will use Pattern by Go Patterns
7) Yoga Pants - grey Ponte de Roma will use Silhouette Patterns Yoga Pant
8) Yoga Top - pink floral wick-a-way will use Lingerie Secrets Undies Top & blue wick-a-way or Ponte de Roma will use Great Copy Patterns Cross-Over Top
(Especially in need of #7-8 since some friends and I decided that taking pole-dancing lessons would be fun. I am certain this will be the topic of a future blog post.)

BurdaStyle Fitted Blazer (#3)

Crisp, White Button-Down Blouse (#4)

I will post pics and thoughts as this sewing adventure unfolds.

Let the stitching begin!

Strike A Pose!

Know why actresses (almost) always look so good?  They've mastered the art of how to pose for a picture.  A bit of Spanx helps a too.

If you don't want to look bad (aka fat) in a picture, don't ever face a camera straight on.  Notice that all the actresses and models are always standing at angles.

I am 'borrowing' the simple photo primer below from the Jan/Feb, 2013 issue of Mental Floss Magazine.  (This is a cool magazine that let's you feel super smart when you wow your friends with useless information and trivia.)

It may seem like many steps to remember. At the very least, hand on hip, one foot in front of the other, and turn sideways a bit.  It often helps to hold your tongue on the roof of your mouth when you  smile. Say Cheese!

Drop Your Scarf on Your Dinner Plate? There's an App for That!

Out at a dinner-meeting last night.  In my attempt to carefully fold my 60-inch long scarf/wrap and place it on my chair, I dropped it on my dinner plate.  Yes, the dinner plate contained food.  Not my ideal food fare but for a local Japanese Seafood Buffet I have to admit I was impressed. (For the record, Kumo Japanese Seafood Buffet.)

Yes, there was that moment of cringe as the wrap was no other than my newly sewn 'wrap of the season.' It was this GORGEOUS silk/wool blend teal print.  As soon as I saw the fabric I had to have it as it screamed "I am your next wrap." Now the wrap wears is dressed in my stir-fried, sauteed green beans.  Though unsure what the sauce was I am certain it was oil-based.

Like most, I grabbed my wrap and ran to the restroom to rinse with cold water. Always the remedy right?  Wrong!  I recalled a small app on my iPhone by Clorox.  Yes, folks, there IS an app to give you guidance on how to handle various stains - the Clorox myStain app.

If something oil-based drips on your garment DO NOT ADD WATER!

Here is the clever trick if you are on-the-go when this happens:
1) Blot off as much of the offender as possible with a clean napkin
2) Sprinkle some artificial sweetener on the stain - yes, you read that right and it's about the only good thing that pink packet is for
3) Let it sit then shake off the excess sweetener
4) When you get home, pre-treat with liquid laundry detergent or dish soap - I HIGHLY recommend Dawn dish detergent (the blue stuff)
5) Wash garment as you normally would - in the case of my wrap, I hand-washed in cold water with the Dawn dish soap
6) Do NOT dry the garment unless the stain is removed.  Drying it will set the stain

So far, so good as it looks like my wrap made it unscathed.  Thank you Clorox!

This is a nifty app to have on hand and also includes laundry advice.
     

Sew Versatile Denim

Denim is our fashion staple. As a sewist I have begun to embrace this fabric as one of my favorites (the other being wool).   Some history, denim was first made in France but came to America in 1492 with Columbus on the ship Santa Maria (source: All About Cotton by Julie Parker. see Rain City Publishing). Sew...when I wear denim, I like to think I am '"dressing like the French!"

From the runway to the farm to the assembly line, denim is everywhere and sewn into everything. I used large pieces of denim as a cover for my couch to protect it from my crazy dogs. It looked nice and resisted tears. Despite it's simplicity and ruggedness, sewing with denim can pose challenges especially knowing how to determine the correct denim fabric for the desired garment.

Denim is simply plain old cotton fibers woven into a twill weave.  In classic blue denim, the warp (lengthwise) yarns are dyed indigo blue and the weft (crosswise) fill yarns are white. These white and blue yarn fibers give denim its characteristic look. Any fiber woven into a twill fabric has the classic twill diagonal lines on the reverse side.

The steeper the diagonal lines the greater the number of warp yarns per inch. The steeper the diagonal, the higher the quality of the denim. This is a sign of a tight, compact weave that is resistant to tearing and wears well.

Denim comes in different weights (measured in ounces), which can create confusion unless one understands how to pair the proper weight denim with the garment design style when sewing.

DENIM WEIGHT RULES OF THUMB

Take it from me if you try to make a fitted pair of jeans from a lightweight, drapey denim or a drapey pair of trouser jeans from a heavier weight denim, you will be unhappy.  I've "been there, done that" a couple of times, which is how I taught myself to understand the significance of pairing the correct denim weight with the correct garment style.

Recommended non-stretch 'classic' jeans sewing patterns:

J Stern Designs 0037 Misses' and Women's Jeans available through Pattern Review

Silhouette Patterns 3300 Lana's Jean

Vogue Patterns 8774

For trouser jeans, try Colette Patterns 1024 Juniper

To Stretch or Not Too Stretch....

Stretch denim has jumped onto the fashion scene. Why? Because the fit is a bit more forgiving.  Everyone laments about not finding jeans that fit and struggling to fit themselves when sewing jeans (self included).  This is a topic for a later blog post. Here are a few understandings I have gathered on the subject of stretch denim. (And, it is possible that as I learn more, this may change.)

Choose Your Spandex Wisely

These are two different species of denim and I have observed many people using the term 'stretch denim' to mean denim with a little bit of stretch.  Here more than ever it is critically important to understand how to read a fiber content label and apply the right fabric with the pattern.

The wrong pattern paired with the wrong stretch fabric can lead to a garment that is either way too small or sags in all the wrong places.

Recommended jeans patterns for denim with 2-3% spandex:

Kwik Sew 3315 Stretch Jeans

Angela Wolf 4200 Angel Bootcut

Petite Plus Patterns Jeans

Recommended jeans patterns for denim with 4-5% spandex:

Jalie 2908 Stretch Jeans

Kwik Sew 3807 Stretch Pants

Stretch Pants from Kwik Sew 3807

The March, 2013 issue of Lucky Magazine offered this color-blocking style suggestion for denim. I suppose it's a good way to use up leftover pieces of denim from past projects.

Happy Denim!!

Corner Office Kudos to Stila

Sometime ago I was approached by two colleagues - two female colleagues. They stopped me in the hall outside my office.  "What are you doing?" they queried backing me into my office - the only space I thought I was safe until now. "Huh?"  was the best I could muster.  Again, they pressed "What are you doing? To your face? What are you doing to your skin?  Something is different you look wonderful."

I had to think for a moment. Only one thing was different. "Stila!" I exclaimed. Stila One-Step Correct. I had purchased it from Sephora only a couple of weeks prior to being accosted by my colleagues. A few days later, someone else asked me the same question.  I can't say enough good about this product.  It is worth every penny.  I used it almost every single day and the bottle lasted over 8 months.  I don't use any other foundation with it either. It's considered a primer but use it like you would make-up. It evens out skin tone using three different color corrects and includes some moisturizers to nourish the skin.  Plus, it's got that super cool helix look akin to good old DNA.

There are similar products manufactured by traditional drugstore cosmetic brands that cost less.  I haven't tried them so I can't compare.  I am very happy with this one and don't care to rock the boat.