The Pleasure of Tracing Things Out.....

I prefer to trace my patterns, especially if they come printed on paper.  

My rationale is two-fold:
1) Since most patterns are multi-sized I've preserved the pattern for use in another size thereby avoiding the cost of an additional pattern
2) In the event of fitting (or other) mishaps I can refer back to the unscathed original 

Since my basement studio has less-than-stellar lighting,  tracing is sometimes cumbersome and it is easy to miss small details like notches and other markings, especially on BurdaStyle Magazine patterns.

A typical BurdaStyle Magazine Pattern Page

I've always traced with a bottom-up approach by placing my new paper on top of the pattern and tracing the lines that show through from underneath.  I'm not sure why other than it never occurred to me to approach the task differently.

If the original pattern is printed with dark lines on heavy white paper (such as vintage Kwik Sew and a number of independent pattern designers) tracing is simple. 

Tracing a pattern piece from Angela Wolf's Ruched T AW1123

However, attempt this with a multi-piece Cutting Line Designs pattern (or even worse  BurdaStyle pattern) and one is tempted to say forget it, just buy another pattern. While the option to purchase another pattern is there, it is not always feasible. (As in an out-of-print pattern.)


But alas! There is a much simpler top-down approach that will require a short trip to the office supply store for carbon paper.  Yes, the stuff that, if you are old enough to remember, used to be rolled into your Remington.

Yes, they still sell this stuff.

Get your tissue pattern piece ready by pressing with a dry iron on wool setting. It's very important to remove all the wrinkles unlike mine in the picture which could use a bit more pressing.

Getting the piece ready for the Two x Four Pattern

by Cutting Line Designs 

Set the pattern piece aside and lay out the blank tracing paper first followed by a layer of carbon paper sheets.  Because the multi-pack contains many sheets I can cover my entire area.

Now, lay the pattern piece on top using weights to hold it in place. This creates a sandwich with blank paper on bottom, carbon in the middle and tissue on top with right side up.

Simply trace along all the lines and markings from the top using your rotary marking wheel.

Voila! Once done, the dotted lines are your pattern traced onto a separate sheet of paper leaving the original pattern is unscathed.

To be more efficient use a double tracing wheel and mark stitching lines at the same time but make sure it is set for the correct seam allowances.

Avoiding Mom or Dad Jeans (aka Long Butt)

It's a reality - very few women can pull off wearing low-rise, skinny jeans and actually LOOK GOOD. (Key here being 'look good.' Many women are wearing them but really shouldn't. In their defense, the stores do not exactly have much variety and tend to only stock skinnies.)

Whether one makes their own or buys them as ready-to-wear, avoiding the 'Mom Jeans' look is key to not looking like...well... mom!

Truth be told, in my own quest to gain some tips on how to avoid this fashion faux pas, I stumbled upon the blog Grasping for Objectivity in My Subjective Life.

Rachel has dedicated a great portion of her time helping women avoid the dreaded 'Mom Jeans' look.  While I don't believe she ever extended her services to men, some of the same principles apply and I will cover here as well.

According to Rachel, "It's all about pocket placement."

An amazing explanation directly from her blog:

"Let me explain. Mom Jeans typically have long pockets and high waists. And, due to this, the tops of the pockets are usually on the back above the butt, while the bottom of the pockets tend to hit mid-butt.
However, the bottom of one’s butt is the most distinct part – it curves inward – so it clearly defines the end of the rear. SO if your pocket STARTS two inches above board and your curve ends two inches below pocket, you just gained an extra two inches of butt, thereby creating the cursed Long Butt.
To avoid LB, go for pockets that actually start a little below the top of your butt and end an inch or so BELOW the butt. This shortens the butt dramatically – because you can still see the distinctive curve at the end of the butt, so it looks like your butt is only as tall as the beginning of the pocket to the curve, thereby making it about half the size of the aforementioned dreadful Mom jeans."

 Note: one can be skinny and still have Long Mom Butt

 Pocket placement aside, here are some general rules-of-thumb to avoid Mom Butt jeans:

1) Avoid diagonal rear pockets (top of pockets angled toward CB and parallel to the yoke). Instead place pockets straight up and down making them slanted relative to the yoke and relatively parallel to the CB seam

Diagonal Pocket Disasters (notice that one has a slightly fuller leg and one is a well-fitted leg)

2) Jeans should NEVER be so tapered that they cut off air supply when you bend over because they are pressing on your lungs. (An issue for women rather than men.) Widen the waist so that it is more straight up and down like a 'guy body' cut.

3) If purchasing jeans and they have an elastic waist or come in sizes S, M, L, XL..... they are mom/dad jeans - AVOID THEM LIKE THE PLAGUE!

4) Jeans must ALWAYS have back pockets to avoid being mom/dad jeans.

5) Avoid lighter/acid washes - go for dark wash

6) Avoid all-over uniform color EXCEPT for dark washes and dressier jeans you might wear to work on casual Friday. A slight bit of shadowing (fading) and/or whiskering in the right places will give definition to a dark wash and still be appropriate.  This you can easily do at home with a bit of sandpaper. Note the slight fading in the back and the front. It's minimal but adds definition. Pastel colors should be reserved to a minimum and frankly, very few people also can pull these off well.

Don't let the merchants and magazines tell you that 'Mom Jeans' are making a comeback. They are trying to make a sale.  Like Skinny Jeans, they are NOT flattering on anyone.

7) Never, ever, ever let your socks show.  If they do, the jeans are too short.  If they are too short, find your best length and cuff them up to that point (Measure between knee and floor, divide into thirds.  At each third is your best length - compliments of Louise Cutting.) If you must wear socks - ankle length only. Show some skin between the sock and cuff of the jeans.


Something for the Guys though really not very different from the Ladies.....

In general, men tend to have a flatter butt, which leads to its own share of challenges that ultimately results in Flat Dad Butt.

1) Purchasing or wearing larger jeans to try and hide the flatness will only make it worse. Find your best size that looks fitted everywhere else.

Classic Flat Butt (compliments of Steve Jobs)

2) Purchase/make jeans with some Spandex/Lycra.  Yes - just do it.  Stiffer jeans made of 100% cotton (usually 12-14 oz sold as work-type jeans) will only make a flat butt look flatter.

3) K.I.S.S. Most flattering on men? Straight Leg or Boot Cut, Medium Rise, Dark Wash. Avoid excessive fanfare, whiskering, distressing, and fading.

4) No Pleats. No high rise. No acid wash.

5) Again, pockets are the key! Look for wider (but not taller) back pockets that sit on your cheeks. Make sure the bottommost edge of the pocket doesn't sit too low on your thighs.  This can make you look dumpy (or Gansta!).  Watch the angled placement too (see #1 above). Must. Have. Back. Pockets.

6) Also, never, ever, ever let your socks show. (See #7 above for women)


7) If your jeans and your look is reminisceint of Jerry Seinfeld, you've got Dad Jeans Syndrome.

Don't let the merchants and magazines tell you that 'Dad Jeans' are making a comeback. They are trying to make a sale.


For men or women, styling is just as important.

** Don't Tuck Shirts In! Or, give it the half tuck - shirt front in/shirt back out.

** Lose the belt. (Note: 'lose' as in remove not 'loosen' as in less tight. If the belt is critical to your jeans staying up then you are wearing the wrong size/style. Lose both.)

** Wear a well-fitted blazer that covers the backside. (Ladies, cardigan can work too. Men, a cardigan only works if you are Fred Rogers.)

He may be one of the most powerful men in the world but this is classic Dad Butt Jeans:

Putting the Blue in Denim

Jeans come in all sorts of Easter Basket colors nowadays

Of course, there is black and white.....

                    And every  shade of grey you can imagine....... 

When you come right down to it, plain old BLUE jeans are classic and generally what most people think of when they imagine 'jeans.'

We wouldn't have this iconic fashion statement if it weren't for the work of German chemist Johann Friedrich Wilhelm Adolf von Baeyer (1835-1917). Baeyer (pronounced "buyer") was awarded the 1905 Nobel Prize in chemistry "in recognition of his services in the advancement of organic chemistry and the chemical industry, through his work on organic dyes and hydroaromatic compounds." In simple words, Baeyer synthesized indigo. Without indigo, we would not have blue jeans.

Indigo plants (genus Indigofera) were once cultivated to extract  indigo pigment. Baeyer developed the method to synthesize it. Later, the industrial process for large-scale production was developed by the German firm Badische Anilin- & Soda-Fabrik (now known as BASF) and placed on the market in 1897.

Indigo is a synthetic fiber dye. Its characteristics impart the well-known features to blue jeans, in particular, the irregular fading patterns we've come to embrace in our well-worn jeans.  The dye's chemical structure prevents it from penetrating into fibers completely making it rather colorfast to water and light. (In other words, exposure to water and light makes them fade.)

For the techies, here is what indigo kinda looks like if it were drawn as a stick figure:

Note: this is the insoluble form of indigo.

And for those who also want a bit more tech.....Cotton CANNOT be dyed with indigo as it is synthesized in its insoluble form. Indigo has to be specially treated (called reducing) to make it so that the cotton fibers can soak up the dye.  Once reduced using other chemicals (Sodium hydroxide and Sodium hydrosulfite), indigo dye is yellow. "Vat dye" is the name given to the general process of reducing an insoluble dye in order to make it take. After fibers are dyed with the reduced version of indigo, they are re-oxidized  to produce the blue color using either another chemical agent or plain old air.

I know this is long and kinda technical but stay with me

What this means to the user......blue jeans fade continuously!

To minimize of fading, wash your blue denims with some white vinegar. Laundry detergents are alkaline in nature. This alkalinity makes it hard for the fibers to hold onto the dye, hence the bleeding we see in our washing tub. Adding vinegar neutralizes the alkaline nature of the detergent.

Now that I offered the vinegar suggestion here is my disclaimer.....I have no idea exactly how much vinegar to use.  I've read everything from a thimble-full to one cup to soak in a bucket with vinegar/water mix. Susan Khalje recommends 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup vinegar per 1 gallon of water as a pre-soak. 

Peggy Sagers recommends washing denim with a can of Coca-Cola added. I suspect she does this for the same reason as the Phosphoric Acid in the Cola would serve the same purpose as the Acetic Acid in the vinegar. 

When I am lucid enough to remember, I've just dumped some white vinegar in the machine - likely a cup or two.  I'll be honest though, since I bought my front-loading machine I haven't tried it as I am not really sure where the best place is to put it.  It was much simpler with the top loading machine.

I have discovered a couple tips on prepping cotton denim fabric.  I used to always wash/dry my denim five times prior to using it. Five times washing in cold water and five times drying on high. 

I NO LONGER DO THIS AND I DON'T RECOMMEND IT!

After washing numerous yards of denim (both blue and colored, 100% cotton and cotton + spandex), here is a breakdown of my past process and how I currently prep the fabric:

 (Note: I specifically noted cotton fabric since RTW denim jeans are not always 100% cotton but an interesting variety of blends. With respect to fiber content, 100% pure WOVEN fibers are the most consistent with respect to handling and performance. As a matter of fact, a number of RTW manufacturers are adding polyester to their denim to increase longevity and decrease wear. Most jeans now have some % of spandex included too. Subjects of some future post.)

I prep denim/spandex blends a bit differently now. In this post, Sew Versatile Denim, I discuss the general weights of denim and with/without spandex. However, I did not really delve into fabric prep until now.  More on what I am doing with denim/spandex blends in a future post.

What about those finished jeans?? How often to wash? This, too is quite the matter of opinion.  Country Outfitter offers these tips on caring for your denim:

1) Wash less frequently and opt instead for spot cleaning where needed
2) Avoid the dryer - hang dry instead
3) Turn jeans inside out (also make sure to close the zipper)
4) Add 1 cup vinegar and 1/4 cup salt to reduce fading

Country Outfitter  even suggests hand washing your jeans.  I doubt I would ever partake of this myself but just throwing it out there.


Don't be blue - except for your jeans of course!


Resources:
Chemistry Connections: The Chemical Basis of Everyday Phenomena, Kerry K. Karukstis and Gerald R. Van Hecke, 2000.
Linen and Cotton: Classic Sewing Techniques for Great Results, Susan Khalje, 1999. 

Are You Mentally Ready to Sew?

Our mental mindset when getting ready to sew is VERY, VERY important. 

This may sound so incredibly obvious yet up until a few years ago, it was not that obvious to me.  

I approached every project the same and would often get very, very frustrated and, as a result, make mistakes.  Afterwords, I wouldn't even want to start another project because of so many frustrating failures and the feeling that “EVERYTHING IS TAKING SOOO LOOOONNGG AND NOT WORKING OUT!"

Here’s how this translates into practice:

You have two projects 1) a two-piece knit top versus 2) lined tailored trousers. 

Each of these are approached differently with respect to what it involves:

• How much time will it require?
• What level of sewing skills are needed?
• How perfect must the fit be for me to look and feel confident? 
• How many pieces parts? (19 pattern pieces - are you kidding me???)
• Interfacing? Interlining? Underlining? Lining?
• Machine(s)? Thread? Do I have to re-thread the serger?

I know I can head to my studio to make a simple two-piece knit top and likely start and finish in one evening. 

For example: Kwik Sew 3740

My  mentalapproach for the knit top is clearly not the same  as that for a pair of lined, tailored trousers.  Here is my epitome of classic, tailored trousers!  And don't we all envision Hepburn when we wear ours??? (okay, at least the ladies???)

Prior to starting a more-involved project, I must adjust my mental approach (aka attack mode):

1)      I must leave this mental mindset outside the studio “I’m going to the studio to sew and get this done”

2)      I must break the project into small tasks where each task is its own attainable ‘project’

  

More involved projects with multiple pieces and elements can be draining, especially if one is not yet as practiced with all the individual elements of that project. Using the lined tailored trousers one must be able to  insert trouser pockets (possibly welts), insert a trouser fly, make belt loops, make and attach a waistband, attach a lining,  etc. Each one of those elements could add considerable time if not well versed in it.

Who hasn’t spent the time making the elaborate project only to find that it didn’t fit – maybe not even at all! I’ve made too many completely unwearable projects - not just a poor fit but not even wearable – and all because of haste and the wrong mental approach. My biggest error (especially with trousers or jeans) is to rush past fitting.

Here is what separates the difference in mental attitude – TAKE THE TIME TO PROPERLY FIT!!!  For example, a noted expert, author, and educator on the subject states “expect to make 3 to 6 fitting muslins to fit trousers.” Yes -  THREE. TO. SIX. 

If a trouser pattern (or any pattern for that matter) fits you straight out of the envelope or only requires minor tweaks consider yourself very lucky.  You have a shape that is more in-line with industry standard measurements and very few people do.

Mentally say to yourself “my next project is going to be to get my fill-in-the-blank pattern fitted. I realize this may take 3 or more revisions to get it right but the results will be well worth it.” 

(Side Commentary regarding Wearable Muslin versus Muslin Made from Muslin: unless the fitting is already fine-tuned or you know you generally do not need to make many adjustments go with the Muslin Made from Muslin (or similar lightweight cotton) and TAKE THE TIME TO GET IT TO FIT RIGHT. A Wearable Muslin is a garment made in fashion fabric similar to the end-result project fabric. If the fit comes out reasonable, it may actually be worn in public unlike that of muslin.)

How to prevent long drawn-out projects from becoming cumbersome? Balance more involved projects with simple ones.  This helps me to keep my sewing attitude and approach fresh. Sometimes I even take a break during a very involved project or one that requires a large amount of hand-sewing to make something quick.  (Of course some of those breaks are much longer than others and measured in years not days/weeks.)

Sew.........Are you ready???

Untangling Thread Sizes

I assumed thread sizing was straightforward.  I was wrong.

As it turns out, there are several classification systems. 

To assist myself, I compiled a very simple list of thread classification, sizes, and general use.  This by no means is an exhaustive list of all the different variants of thread sizing systems but just a few basic guidelines.

There are two distinct classes for thread classification:

Fixed Weight and Fixed Length

Fixed Weight	Fixed Length
Thread count/size is expressed based on fixed weight	Thread count/size is expressed based on fixed length
Number of 1-meter (Metric) or 840-yard (English/Imperial) lengths of yarn called hanks in either a Kilogram (Metric) or 16 Ounces (English/Imperial)	Size indicated by the weight of a fixed length of yarn
Thick yarns = low count/size Thin yarns = high count/size	Thin yarns = low count/size Thick yarns = high count/size
Example: Ticket system	Example: Tex system

Here's how to put those sizes into use:

Application	Heavy Weight	Medium Weight	Light Weight	Lighter-Weight
Use	Topstitching, Buttonholes, Heavy Duty	Seam Construction for Most Applications	Overlock, Knits, Very Lightweight Fabrics	Blind Hem
Ticket System* ("Weight")	30-40	60-80**	130-140	180-200
Tex System	60-100	30-40	20-27	5-15

*Note: The term 'ticket system' means a whole lot of different  things and is also called Metric System and often referred to as 'Weight' (e.g. "Use 30-weight thread for this project"). It may be further subdivided depending on fiber content (cotton, polyester, rayon, silk, etc.) and even those are further subdivided depending on how the thread was made, number ply, etc.

**70 most common for spun polyester
**50 or 60 most common for cotton

To add a bit more fun……there is another weight-based system called ‘Denier.’ The thread size/count is based on the weight, in grams, of 9000 m of yarn. If a given length weighs 100 grams per 9000 m of yarn, it would be classified as 100 denier. A 100-denier thread is thicker than a 50-denier thread. (Just thought I would toss this out there while on the subject.)

Back to School Sewing Studio Savings.....

When 'Back to School' season starts, I can't help but get a bit nostalgic for colorful folders, pens, crayons, and that oh-so-trendy 'Trapper Keeper.'  The school supply sales are a SUPER time to stock up on sewing supplies.  Oh yes!  Many school supplies are helpful tools in the sewing studio.

 Post-It Notes

• Use them to jot notes to stick to your patterns or pattern directions
• When I have to walk away from my sewing in-progress, I'll often leave a note for where I left off and what to do next
• They made great seam allowance gauges at the sewing machine - just stick them at your seam allowance point and guide your fabric alongside

Dixon Ticonderoga Pencils
I'm a bit of a pencil snob. These are the only brand I will use.
End of discussion.



Large Rubber Erasers
Kinda goes hand-in-hand with the pencils. However, they are perfect for lifting the back of the sewing machine so that the machine sits on angle and is easier to see.  This helps to eliminate some back and neck strain.

Pencil Sharpener (Electric and Manual)
I couldn't survive without my electric pencil sharpener to keep the tips of my pencils sharp for pattern drafting and tracing. The small, manual style is good for traveling but also some colored pencils don't sharpen well in an electric device.

Prismacolor Colored Pencils
These are best for pattern work especially when copying from RTW. Do NOT get the Verithin type (they are too hard).

Composition Books
I love these for keep track of projects and jotting notes. They come in many fun colors and designs now.

Manilla Folders
These come in handy for making pattern templates for small items like pockets and as a hemming gauge.



Clear, Flexible, and Curve Rulers
Used for drafting and cutting straight lines and curves

 

Tape - Double-sided and Dispenser Style
I use double-sided tape to attach swatches of fabric in my project notebooks and I am constantly taping pattern pieces together.  Get a good, heavyweight dispenser that doesn't move when you pull a piece of tape off. The double-sided tape can also be used to tape down and tame unruly vinyl or leather seams.

        

Binders & Plastic Protective Sleeves
For storing items from magazines, printed patterns, etc. I am constantly ripping out inspirational ideas from fashion magazines.

Kraft Paper
I don't personally use Kraft Paper but many people do for tracing and drawing patterns.  Now's the time to watch for sales and special % off deals.

   

And...........Sharpie Markers
One can never have enough of these.

Denim Diary - My Fav Denim Tools

I was asked if I had a list of my favorite resources and products I use when working with denim.  Since I didn't, I decided to put this together for myself as well as for others.

I will likely add to this post over time as I stumble upon more cool and noteworthy products.

 Hammer/Mallet
 It seems as though once I started using a mallet to 'tenderize' thick seams on denim, I started using it on everything.  Yes, even knits!

I HIGHLY recommend using a Dead Blow Hammer (also called Dead blow mallet) rather than a traditional hammer to soften seams. It looks like a rubber mallet but isn't the exact same thing. 
Two reasons:
1) A dead blow hammer minimizes damage to the surface being struck
2) A dead blow hammer minimizes the rebound effect after striking a surface netting more force to the surface being struck AND (more important) less damage and strain backward to one's forearm.  It might not 'seam' like a big deal but one could easily strike a garment a few hundred times during the construction process.

They come in different weights (measured in ounces). Especially for a female, I don't recommend a hammer greater than 16 ounces.  It is just a 

Dead Blow Hammer (Mallet) - usually orange or yellow in color

My personal favorite hammer is made by Craftsman and called a Soft-Face Hammer.  It comes with 4 interchangeable tips depending on the surface.  I use the black tip for fabric.

 

 
 Craftsman Soft-Face Hammer with 4 Tips








Zippers/Zipper Stops
I generally purchase YKK metal jeans zippers through Janie's Sewing Corner and alter the length when needed.  

I now know that I can purchase individual top and bottom zipper stops through ZipperStop.  Their selection is unbelievable and their service is fabulous.  

Wawak also carries zipper tops and bottoms and many different sizes and colors of zippers.

Snaps and Rivets

'Dritz No Sew Dungaree Buttons' (also called Tack Buttons) work the best for the fly button.  I like these because not only are they 'no sew' but also they don't even require a hammer.  They can be easily snapped together by hand. They also come in four different metal colors - silver, brass, gold, and black.

  

I recently found this company: Dimebuttons
They sell unique, decorative jeans tack buttons and rivets.  You can even purchase logo tack buttons such as 'Armani,' 'Seven for All Mankind,' or 'Wrangler.'  

Keep in mind that a 'No Sew' dungaree/tack button may require a hammer and/or dye-set to be put together.  'No-Sew' doesn't necessarily mean 'easy.'

So far, I've only used Dritz brand rivets.  I am able to get both the buttons and rivets locally at Janie's Sewing Corner.


A little bit off-topic but somewhat related, here is a helpful Primer on various fasteners by Dritz.

Topstitching Thread
I'm currently using Mettler Cordonnet Topstitching Thread for most of my topstitching. I love the look of the thread.  It is very thick and must be used with a topstitching needle since it cannot be easily inserted into a regular needle. (I use a Schmetz Topstitching needle.)  
 




Sewing Thread

I am not as particular as some people about sewing thread though I do prefer a good quality brand such as Mettler or Gutterman. Recently, I tried Omni Thread by Superior Threads.  I have to admit that I am impressed.  

I am not completely sure how to explain what is different but I like the way it sews.  I am currently using it on my Juki TL-98Q.

Denim
If you are willing to purchase bolts of denim in 30-yard quantities or have a friend willing to split, I highly recommend Safe Denim. The cotton is organically grown in the United States and the denim is made here as well.

As my favorites change or I find new products, I will continue to add to this post.