The Pleasure of Tracing Things Out.....

I prefer to trace my patterns, especially if they come printed on paper.  

My rationale is two-fold:
1) Since most patterns are multi-sized I've preserved the pattern for use in another size thereby avoiding the cost of an additional pattern
2) In the event of fitting (or other) mishaps I can refer back to the unscathed original 

Since my basement studio has less-than-stellar lighting,  tracing is sometimes cumbersome and it is easy to miss small details like notches and other markings, especially on BurdaStyle Magazine patterns.

A typical BurdaStyle Magazine Pattern Page

I've always traced with a bottom-up approach by placing my new paper on top of the pattern and tracing the lines that show through from underneath.  I'm not sure why other than it never occurred to me to approach the task differently.

If the original pattern is printed with dark lines on heavy white paper (such as vintage Kwik Sew and a number of independent pattern designers) tracing is simple. 

Tracing a pattern piece from Angela Wolf's Ruched T AW1123

However, attempt this with a multi-piece Cutting Line Designs pattern (or even worse  BurdaStyle pattern) and one is tempted to say forget it, just buy another pattern. While the option to purchase another pattern is there, it is not always feasible. (As in an out-of-print pattern.)


But alas! There is a much simpler top-down approach that will require a short trip to the office supply store for carbon paper.  Yes, the stuff that, if you are old enough to remember, used to be rolled into your Remington.

Yes, they still sell this stuff.

Get your tissue pattern piece ready by pressing with a dry iron on wool setting. It's very important to remove all the wrinkles unlike mine in the picture which could use a bit more pressing.

Getting the piece ready for the Two x Four Pattern

by Cutting Line Designs 

Set the pattern piece aside and lay out the blank tracing paper first followed by a layer of carbon paper sheets.  Because the multi-pack contains many sheets I can cover my entire area.

Now, lay the pattern piece on top using weights to hold it in place. This creates a sandwich with blank paper on bottom, carbon in the middle and tissue on top with right side up.

Simply trace along all the lines and markings from the top using your rotary marking wheel.

Voila! Once done, the dotted lines are your pattern traced onto a separate sheet of paper leaving the original pattern is unscathed.

To be more efficient use a double tracing wheel and mark stitching lines at the same time but make sure it is set for the correct seam allowances.

Are You Mentally Ready to Sew?

Our mental mindset when getting ready to sew is VERY, VERY important. 

This may sound so incredibly obvious yet up until a few years ago, it was not that obvious to me.  

I approached every project the same and would often get very, very frustrated and, as a result, make mistakes.  Afterwords, I wouldn't even want to start another project because of so many frustrating failures and the feeling that “EVERYTHING IS TAKING SOOO LOOOONNGG AND NOT WORKING OUT!"

Here’s how this translates into practice:

You have two projects 1) a two-piece knit top versus 2) lined tailored trousers. 

Each of these are approached differently with respect to what it involves:

• How much time will it require?
• What level of sewing skills are needed?
• How perfect must the fit be for me to look and feel confident? 
• How many pieces parts? (19 pattern pieces - are you kidding me???)
• Interfacing? Interlining? Underlining? Lining?
• Machine(s)? Thread? Do I have to re-thread the serger?

I know I can head to my studio to make a simple two-piece knit top and likely start and finish in one evening. 

For example: Kwik Sew 3740

My  mentalapproach for the knit top is clearly not the same  as that for a pair of lined, tailored trousers.  Here is my epitome of classic, tailored trousers!  And don't we all envision Hepburn when we wear ours??? (okay, at least the ladies???)

Prior to starting a more-involved project, I must adjust my mental approach (aka attack mode):

1)      I must leave this mental mindset outside the studio “I’m going to the studio to sew and get this done”

2)      I must break the project into small tasks where each task is its own attainable ‘project’

  

More involved projects with multiple pieces and elements can be draining, especially if one is not yet as practiced with all the individual elements of that project. Using the lined tailored trousers one must be able to  insert trouser pockets (possibly welts), insert a trouser fly, make belt loops, make and attach a waistband, attach a lining,  etc. Each one of those elements could add considerable time if not well versed in it.

Who hasn’t spent the time making the elaborate project only to find that it didn’t fit – maybe not even at all! I’ve made too many completely unwearable projects - not just a poor fit but not even wearable – and all because of haste and the wrong mental approach. My biggest error (especially with trousers or jeans) is to rush past fitting.

Here is what separates the difference in mental attitude – TAKE THE TIME TO PROPERLY FIT!!!  For example, a noted expert, author, and educator on the subject states “expect to make 3 to 6 fitting muslins to fit trousers.” Yes -  THREE. TO. SIX. 

If a trouser pattern (or any pattern for that matter) fits you straight out of the envelope or only requires minor tweaks consider yourself very lucky.  You have a shape that is more in-line with industry standard measurements and very few people do.

Mentally say to yourself “my next project is going to be to get my fill-in-the-blank pattern fitted. I realize this may take 3 or more revisions to get it right but the results will be well worth it.” 

(Side Commentary regarding Wearable Muslin versus Muslin Made from Muslin: unless the fitting is already fine-tuned or you know you generally do not need to make many adjustments go with the Muslin Made from Muslin (or similar lightweight cotton) and TAKE THE TIME TO GET IT TO FIT RIGHT. A Wearable Muslin is a garment made in fashion fabric similar to the end-result project fabric. If the fit comes out reasonable, it may actually be worn in public unlike that of muslin.)

How to prevent long drawn-out projects from becoming cumbersome? Balance more involved projects with simple ones.  This helps me to keep my sewing attitude and approach fresh. Sometimes I even take a break during a very involved project or one that requires a large amount of hand-sewing to make something quick.  (Of course some of those breaks are much longer than others and measured in years not days/weeks.)

Sew.........Are you ready???

Untangling Thread Sizes

I assumed thread sizing was straightforward.  I was wrong.

As it turns out, there are several classification systems. 

To assist myself, I compiled a very simple list of thread classification, sizes, and general use.  This by no means is an exhaustive list of all the different variants of thread sizing systems but just a few basic guidelines.

There are two distinct classes for thread classification:

Fixed Weight and Fixed Length

Fixed Weight	Fixed Length
Thread count/size is expressed based on fixed weight	Thread count/size is expressed based on fixed length
Number of 1-meter (Metric) or 840-yard (English/Imperial) lengths of yarn called hanks in either a Kilogram (Metric) or 16 Ounces (English/Imperial)	Size indicated by the weight of a fixed length of yarn
Thick yarns = low count/size Thin yarns = high count/size	Thin yarns = low count/size Thick yarns = high count/size
Example: Ticket system	Example: Tex system

Here's how to put those sizes into use:

Application	Heavy Weight	Medium Weight	Light Weight	Lighter-Weight
Use	Topstitching, Buttonholes, Heavy Duty	Seam Construction for Most Applications	Overlock, Knits, Very Lightweight Fabrics	Blind Hem
Ticket System* ("Weight")	30-40	60-80**	130-140	180-200
Tex System	60-100	30-40	20-27	5-15

*Note: The term 'ticket system' means a whole lot of different  things and is also called Metric System and often referred to as 'Weight' (e.g. "Use 30-weight thread for this project"). It may be further subdivided depending on fiber content (cotton, polyester, rayon, silk, etc.) and even those are further subdivided depending on how the thread was made, number ply, etc.

**70 most common for spun polyester
**50 or 60 most common for cotton

To add a bit more fun……there is another weight-based system called ‘Denier.’ The thread size/count is based on the weight, in grams, of 9000 m of yarn. If a given length weighs 100 grams per 9000 m of yarn, it would be classified as 100 denier. A 100-denier thread is thicker than a 50-denier thread. (Just thought I would toss this out there while on the subject.)

Back to School Sewing Studio Savings.....

When 'Back to School' season starts, I can't help but get a bit nostalgic for colorful folders, pens, crayons, and that oh-so-trendy 'Trapper Keeper.'  The school supply sales are a SUPER time to stock up on sewing supplies.  Oh yes!  Many school supplies are helpful tools in the sewing studio.

 Post-It Notes

• Use them to jot notes to stick to your patterns or pattern directions
• When I have to walk away from my sewing in-progress, I'll often leave a note for where I left off and what to do next
• They made great seam allowance gauges at the sewing machine - just stick them at your seam allowance point and guide your fabric alongside

Dixon Ticonderoga Pencils
I'm a bit of a pencil snob. These are the only brand I will use.
End of discussion.



Large Rubber Erasers
Kinda goes hand-in-hand with the pencils. However, they are perfect for lifting the back of the sewing machine so that the machine sits on angle and is easier to see.  This helps to eliminate some back and neck strain.

Pencil Sharpener (Electric and Manual)
I couldn't survive without my electric pencil sharpener to keep the tips of my pencils sharp for pattern drafting and tracing. The small, manual style is good for traveling but also some colored pencils don't sharpen well in an electric device.

Prismacolor Colored Pencils
These are best for pattern work especially when copying from RTW. Do NOT get the Verithin type (they are too hard).

Composition Books
I love these for keep track of projects and jotting notes. They come in many fun colors and designs now.

Manilla Folders
These come in handy for making pattern templates for small items like pockets and as a hemming gauge.



Clear, Flexible, and Curve Rulers
Used for drafting and cutting straight lines and curves

 

Tape - Double-sided and Dispenser Style
I use double-sided tape to attach swatches of fabric in my project notebooks and I am constantly taping pattern pieces together.  Get a good, heavyweight dispenser that doesn't move when you pull a piece of tape off. The double-sided tape can also be used to tape down and tame unruly vinyl or leather seams.

        

Binders & Plastic Protective Sleeves
For storing items from magazines, printed patterns, etc. I am constantly ripping out inspirational ideas from fashion magazines.

Kraft Paper
I don't personally use Kraft Paper but many people do for tracing and drawing patterns.  Now's the time to watch for sales and special % off deals.

   

And...........Sharpie Markers
One can never have enough of these.