Sunday, September 1, 2013

Denim Diary - My Fav Denim Tools


I was asked if I had a list of my favorite resources and products I use when working with denim.  Since I didn't, I decided to put this together for myself as well as for others.

I will likely add to this post over time as I stumble upon more cool and noteworthy products.

 Hammer/Mallet
 It seems as though once I started using a mallet to 'tenderize' thick seams on denim, I started using it on everything.  Yes, even knits!

I HIGHLY recommend using a Dead Blow Hammer (also called Dead blow mallet) rather than a traditional hammer to soften seams. It looks like a rubber mallet but isn't the exact same thing. 
Two reasons:
1) A dead blow hammer minimizes damage to the surface being struck
2) A dead blow hammer minimizes the rebound effect after striking a surface netting more force to the surface being struck AND (more important) less damage and strain backward to one's forearm.  It might not 'seam' like a big deal but one could easily strike a garment a few hundred times during the construction process.

They come in different weights (measured in ounces). Especially for a female, I don't recommend a hammer greater than 16 ounces.  It is just a 

Dead Blow Hammer (Mallet) - usually orange or yellow in color














My personal favorite hammer is made by Craftsman and called a Soft-Face Hammer.  It comes with 4 interchangeable tips depending on the surface.  I use the black tip for fabric.
Main Product Image 



 
 Craftsman Soft-Face Hammer with 4 Tips








Zippers/Zipper Stops
I generally purchase YKK metal jeans zippers through Janie's Sewing Corner and alter the length when needed.  



I now know that I can purchase individual top and bottom zipper stops through ZipperStop.  Their selection is unbelievable and their service is fabulous.  

Wawak also carries zipper tops and bottoms and many different sizes and colors of zippers.




Snaps and Rivets
'Dritz No Sew Dungaree Buttons' (also called Tack Buttons) work the best for the fly button.  I like these because not only are they 'no sew' but also they don't even require a hammer.  They can be easily snapped together by hand. They also come in four different metal colors - silver, brass, gold, and black.
  





I recently found this company: Dimebuttons
They sell unique, decorative jeans tack buttons and rivets.  You can even purchase logo tack buttons such as 'Armani,' 'Seven for All Mankind,' or 'Wrangler.'  

Keep in mind that a 'No Sew' dungaree/tack button may require a hammer and/or dye-set to be put together.  'No-Sew' doesn't necessarily mean 'easy.'

So far, I've only used Dritz brand rivets.  I am able to get both the buttons and rivets locally at Janie's Sewing Corner.


A little bit off-topic but somewhat related, here is a helpful Primer on various fasteners by Dritz.

Topstitching Thread
I'm currently using Mettler Cordonnet Topstitching Thread for most of my topstitching. I love the look of the thread.  It is very thick and must be used with a topstitching needle since it cannot be easily inserted into a regular needle. (I use a Schmetz Topstitching needle.)  
 Mettler cordonnet topstitching thread Color 814




Sewing Thread

I am not as particular as some people about sewing thread though I do prefer a good quality brand such as Mettler or Gutterman. Recently, I tried Omni Thread by Superior Threads.  I have to admit that I am impressed.  



I am not completely sure how to explain what is different but I like the way it sews.  I am currently using it on my Juki TL-98Q.

Denim
If you are willing to purchase bolts of denim in 30-yard quantities or have a friend willing to split, I highly recommend Safe Denim. The cotton is organically grown in the United States and the denim is made here as well.







As my favorites change or I find new products, I will continue to add to this post.