I assumed thread sizing was straightforward. I was wrong.
As it turns out, there are several classification systems.
To assist myself, I compiled a very simple list of thread classification, sizes, and general use. This by no means is an exhaustive list of all the different variants of thread sizing systems but just a few basic guidelines.
There are two distinct classes for thread classification:
Fixed Weight and Fixed Length
Fixed Weight |
Fixed Length
|
Thread count/size
is expressed based on fixed weight
|
Thread count/size
is expressed based on fixed length
|
Number of 1-meter
(Metric) or 840-yard (English/Imperial) lengths of yarn called hanks in
either a Kilogram (Metric) or 16 Ounces (English/Imperial)
|
Size indicated by
the weight of a fixed length of yarn
|
Thick yarns = low count/size
Thin yarns = high count/size
|
Thin yarns = low
count/size
Thick yarns = high
count/size
|
Example: Ticket
system
|
Example: Tex system
|
Here's how to put those sizes into use:
Application |
Heavy Weight
|
Medium Weight
|
Light Weight
|
Lighter-Weight
|
Use |
Topstitching,
Buttonholes,
Heavy Duty
|
Seam Construction for Most Applications
|
Overlock,
Knits, Very Lightweight Fabrics
|
Blind Hem
|
Ticket System*
("Weight") |
30-40 |
60-80** |
130-140 |
180-200 |
Tex System
|
60-100
|
30-40
|
20-27
|
5-15
|
**70 most common for spun polyester
**50 or 60 most common for cotton
To add a bit more fun……there is another weight-based system
called ‘Denier.’ The thread size/count is based on the weight, in grams, of
9000 m of yarn. If a given length weighs 100 grams per 9000 m of yarn, it would
be classified as 100 denier. A 100-denier thread is thicker than a 50-denier thread. (Just thought I would toss this out there while on the subject.)